Sunday, January 12, 2014

Tippi Hedren Suit - Outer Jacket Complete! Butterick 2178

I finished the outer jacket today and here it is:

The pockets are going to be a lot shallower than depicted in the photo because I haven't hemmed the jacket yet (the hem is a deep 1 3/4 inches).  To make the pockets, I started by looking at the front jacket pattern piece which shows the placement of the pocket flaps:

I measured, and the distances between the two dots above was 5 inches, so I added a half inch for two quarter inch seam allowances.  I then measured to the bottom edge of the pattern piece and that was 5 3/8 inches.  Then I added another two inches because I wanted a fold-over so that the lining of the pocket wouldn't show from the top of the pocket.  So my "pattern piece" for the pocket was 5 1/2 inches by 7 3/8 inches.  I didn't worry about being exact, since I could just trim the bottom of the pocket to be even with the bottom of the jacket.

I cut two pieces from the wool and two pieces from some silk scraps from some silk my in-laws brought me from Singapore.  I sewed them together at the top using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Then I stitched them together at the sides, right sides together, with the wool folded about an 1 1/4 inch down.  Then I turned the pockets right side out.  Here is a photo of the back/inside of the pockets:

And here's a close up of the front pocket before it was sewn on:

To attach the pocket, I used the placement dots on the pattern piece to orient me where I wanted the pockets.  I ended up putting them a half inch closer to the front and a half inch higher than the original pocket flap marks.

Then there was nothing left to do but topstitch down the side of each pocket.  I sweated this step though, because topstitching is forever.  (Not really, but it feels like it!)  I've been using the dark pine green thread I used on my Gertie coat for this project, but I felt that it was too dark for this heathered green wool.  I ended up using dark grey thread instead, which I believe blended better with the wool.

Also, I didn't topstitch the pockets all the way to the bottom edge of the jacket because I don't want the pocket edge to interfere with my hemming. So I left the bottom inch unstitched so I can trim the pockets before I hem.  The bottom of the pockets will be covered by the lining.

Of course, as I type, I realize that I should have pressed the wool/silk top seam towards the silk instead of towards the wool; it would lay flatter.  Thus, I'm not completely happy with the pockets, but I'm not certain I'm so unhappy that I would re-do them.  I'll ruminate on it for awhile.

Today I also made a pattern piece for the cuffs, and created a pattern piece for the jacket front lining.  Still don't know if it will work, but I'll make it work.  I laid out all the still uncut pattern pieces, along with the dress pattern pieces just to make sure I'll have enough fabric.  I'll have enough with about 1/4 yard to spare!

1 comment:

Vicki W said...

You will think I am nuts but, yes, I'd redo the pocket in a garment as nice as this one. As the jacket is pressed that bulk will become more noticeable.
See you Saturday!