tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3087548577080384092024-03-14T03:25:00.330-04:00Cotton Creek SewingSewing. Quilting. Anything that makes life worth living.KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.comBlogger170125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-39999722461196157512015-09-19T14:20:00.000-04:002015-09-19T14:24:08.612-04:00Let's Do It Again - Style Arc Sally Jean Skirt<span style="font-size: large;">It seems like that I stopped sewing once I got my new Juki! Not really, but it feels that way. Since April, I have made a new slip from <a href="http://butterick.mccall.com/b6031-products-48003.php?page_id=147" target="_blank">Gertie's pattern</a>, along with two camisoles, but I don't have a dress form and it is difficult to photograph without one, so I haven't posted about that project.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Instead, I became obsessed with knitting because while I'm too tired to sew after work at night, I'm not too tired to knit. So I started four sweaters and finished none. As my friend, Loy, says: "Gauge lies."</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">What I really enjoyed about knitting was learning a new craft. I spent a fortune on yarn, books (oh, so many books), DVDs, and notions. I was challenged and it was fun.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">And then it left me, mysteriously as it had come. And it gave me time to think, "What do I really want to make?"</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">There are many garments that I am inspired to make because they look so darn cute on other bloggers. Not necessary on me, but cute on other people. And then there are the garments that are just so fun to make - maybe not so much fun to wear, but fun to make.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">While I was thinking, I was wearing me-made clothes and I finally realized the clothing I make that I actually wear are clothes that feel good. If something doesn't wear like your best friend, you probably aren't going to wear it, no matter how good it looks.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So what have I actually been wearing? This, dear readers:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uUswCG3d_rk/U-ZuGS3N8VI/AAAAAAAACeg/ervSUVyMr3o/s1600/IMG_5498.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uUswCG3d_rk/U-ZuGS3N8VI/AAAAAAAACeg/ervSUVyMr3o/s640/IMG_5498.JPG" width="425" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xK_zzAAZ33c/U-ZuGAI8gWI/AAAAAAAACeo/pEFVCemmpUI/s1600/IMG_5502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xK_zzAAZ33c/U-ZuGAI8gWI/AAAAAAAACeo/pEFVCemmpUI/s640/IMG_5502.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=473&Itemid=47" target="_blank">Style Arc's Sally Jean Skirt</a>. I love, love this pattern because it is a real jean skirt, no style shortcuts involved. The white bull denim I used <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/08/the-jeans-project-style-arcs-sally-jean.html" target="_blank">last year</a> was actually meant as a wearable muslin, but it turned out so well, I stopped there and continued on with my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/making%20jeans" target="_blank">epic jeans-making project</a>. I had always planned to make this again using the <a href="http://www.taylortailor.com/shop/denim/cone-mills-red-line-selvedge-denim-13-5-oz/" target="_blank">13.5 oz selvedge denim from Cone Mills</a> I bought from <a href="http://www.taylortailor.com/" target="_blank">Taylor Tailor</a> that I used on my final pair of jeans.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I wore the hell out of it this past summer, and with fall coming I felt it was the perfect time for a traditional denim skirt.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I had all the materials, except rivets, so a few weekends ago I cut it out and enjoyed the process immensely. I realized this is where I have always aspired my sewing to be: sewing exactly what I want, with all materials on hand, and all skills already mastered in order to create exactly what I envisioned. </span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n9jVv4oVCFw/Vf2hOrTJILI/AAAAAAAAC3o/QdyqLKUEvnI/s1600/IMG_6010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n9jVv4oVCFw/Vf2hOrTJILI/AAAAAAAAC3o/QdyqLKUEvnI/s400/IMG_6010.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I used my white skirt as a reference during the sewing process and there are a few things I changed:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">1. I made the pockets deeper by about one and one-quarter inches. I just eyeballed it while cutting out the pocket bags, rather than redrafting the pattern. I don't always put my hands in my pockets, but when I do, I like to get my whole hand in there. : )</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GV12eojxhbM/Vf2hcwvo34I/AAAAAAAAC3w/SxK7rcvLRMo/s1600/IMG_6030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GV12eojxhbM/Vf2hcwvo34I/AAAAAAAAC3w/SxK7rcvLRMo/s640/IMG_6030.JPG" width="425" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">2. I put in the 3/4 inch hem the pattern specifies. With my white skirt, I put in a 2 inch hem, and found that the bull denim shrunk on me in length nearly an inch during the numerous washings it received. I may not have this problem with the selvedge denim, as I washed and dried it three times before using, while I only washed the white denim once, but I thought a slightly longer length would be good for fall anyway.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1Z06vfycG0U/Vf2hOoSZSTI/AAAAAAAAC3g/4XAUpARlJAs/s1600/IMG_6008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1Z06vfycG0U/Vf2hOoSZSTI/AAAAAAAAC3g/4XAUpARlJAs/s640/IMG_6008.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">3. I used a piece of SnugHug to mimic the Levis' red tag on the back pocket. I had meant to use it on my final jeans project, but forgot. I really like the look:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-68Xe12POi40/Vf2hmq4kaeI/AAAAAAAAC34/k4cMuSamJX8/s1600/IMG_6013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-68Xe12POi40/Vf2hmq4kaeI/AAAAAAAAC34/k4cMuSamJX8/s400/IMG_6013.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">As you can see, I also added decorative stitching to the back pockets which I forgot to do for the white skirt.</span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">4. I used a jeans metal zipper rather than the nylon zipper I put in the white skirt. I felt the heavier jeans material warranted the metal zipper. A note about shortening metal zippers - I handle them the same way I shorten a nylon zipper. Which means I shorten them at the top. I just sew the waistband on and cut off the excess zipper tape with kitchen shears. I don't bother removing individual metal zipper material from the excess. So far I have been lucky, and haven't broken a needle, but I know it is just a matter of time. I go slow, and so far it has worked out.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">5. I had to piece the waistband at the center back in order to cut the waistband on the cross grain because my fabric was only 36 inches wide. I did this with my jeans too. I like jean waistbands on the cross grain - more stretch, but less shrinking means more comfort in the waist area. I covered up the seam with the back center belt holder.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Given the traditional jean material, my topstitching stood out more:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qRVrf5MI0rU/Vf2i4-gkG8I/AAAAAAAAC4M/Z4-IdI_TmIU/s1600/IMG_6020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qRVrf5MI0rU/Vf2i4-gkG8I/AAAAAAAAC4M/Z4-IdI_TmIU/s400/IMG_6020.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yzvzpyc_JHc/Vf2i4_mmpjI/AAAAAAAAC4I/LB0xze6qu0w/s1600/IMG_6021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yzvzpyc_JHc/Vf2i4_mmpjI/AAAAAAAAC4I/LB0xze6qu0w/s400/IMG_6021.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GRjT1TVp0P4/Vf2i4nlFeeI/AAAAAAAAC4E/7PbWpZJHOCI/s1600/IMG_6031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GRjT1TVp0P4/Vf2i4nlFeeI/AAAAAAAAC4E/7PbWpZJHOCI/s400/IMG_6031.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I'm fairly happy with it. As you can see, the rivets still aren't on, and I need to order some from Taylor Tailor because I sure didn't like what they had for sale at Hancock fabrics.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I thought it was interesting to see how much my jeans had faded from the original blue. Here are my jeans and new jean skirt side-by-side:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZYfGvpJAdqk/Vf2kedXEHCI/AAAAAAAAC4s/6htARbCsg3g/s1600/IMG_6015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZYfGvpJAdqk/Vf2kedXEHCI/AAAAAAAAC4s/6htARbCsg3g/s400/IMG_6015.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xYDCmPpqK40/Vf2keBMYdfI/AAAAAAAAC4o/TUO1md4z7XQ/s1600/IMG_6016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xYDCmPpqK40/Vf2keBMYdfI/AAAAAAAAC4o/TUO1md4z7XQ/s400/IMG_6016.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">My photographer, The Carpenter, was not in the mood to take photos showing my entire self, and I didn't insist. Here's my top part:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DsqEuvtyeRs/Vf2jUvNPn1I/AAAAAAAAC4c/frjWdQpcnD8/s1600/IMG_6035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DsqEuvtyeRs/Vf2jUvNPn1I/AAAAAAAAC4c/frjWdQpcnD8/s400/IMG_6035.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">All in all, a real sewing boost to my non-existent sewing mojo! One thing that helped was multiple sewing machines: I used my new Juki 600 for the construction, my Bernina for topstitching, and my newly repaired serger for serging the faux-felled seams. I had a regular little sweatshop going! It is amazing how the right tools make the job so much easier.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So what is next? Style Arc has a narrow jeans pattern I'm itching to try it. Also, The Carpenter, despite his grouchiness about taking photos, wants me to make him some jeans, given that the jeans fabric from Levis has gone down so much in quality. My plan is to use Kwik Sew's pattern <a href="http://kwiksew.mccall.com/k3504-products-20065.php?page_id=3343" target="_blank">number 3504</a>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Parting Shot: </b>My father died in July, unexpectedly. Here's a photo I took of him in December 2013 in Cotton Creek, AL around Christmas time. He's mid-story and looking so much like himself, I can hardly believe he is gone:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-80115853011279919902015-04-06T16:19:00.000-04:002015-08-23T08:51:21.987-04:00Fly Zip Tutorial for Simplicity 2860 Trousers<span style="font-size: large;">I made another pair of trousers from Simplicity 2860. My <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2015/02/trousers-simplicity-2860.html" target="_blank">first pair</a> was really a wearable muslin, so for this version, I pulled out more of Vicki's awesome fabric and used a red linen/silk blend that really worked well. The silk makes the fabric less wrinkly, and the linen gives the silk some heft. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I made this version without the belt loops since I didn't want to have to wear a belt with them:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UqARa_0mFas/VSLTmAjyAQI/AAAAAAAACww/HfNsG7pG5AY/s1600/IMG_5939%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UqARa_0mFas/VSLTmAjyAQI/AAAAAAAACww/HfNsG7pG5AY/s1600/IMG_5939%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I still can't believe how great these fit:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7-9liB08tsY/VSLTlxcoCEI/AAAAAAAACws/cJgEvT7iGc8/s1600/IMG_5938%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7-9liB08tsY/VSLTlxcoCEI/AAAAAAAACws/cJgEvT7iGc8/s1600/IMG_5938%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y8LrQlPNe8M/VSLTk1l5pdI/AAAAAAAACwc/3I1aaYoDmsY/s1600/IMG_5937%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y8LrQlPNe8M/VSLTk1l5pdI/AAAAAAAACwc/3I1aaYoDmsY/s1600/IMG_5937%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The only alteration I made was to lengthen legs by 1 inch. I'm 5'5" so I'm not terribly tall or short, but these pants legs do seem a big short. Since the legs are straight, I just lengthened them by chalking off an extra inch right on the fabric as I was cutting out:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xnk5ZsOYGKI/VSLTiPA1gHI/AAAAAAAACv4/NshOceHKLbI/s1600/IMG_5926%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xnk5ZsOYGKI/VSLTiPA1gHI/AAAAAAAACv4/NshOceHKLbI/s1600/IMG_5926%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I also took the time to make separate pattern pieces for the waist facing. The instructions tell you to use the same pattern pieces for the facing as you do the waist, but cut off 3/8 inch from the bottom edge for the facing. I forgot to do this on my first version, so I just traced off new pattern pieces for the facings, eliminating that 3/8 of an inch so I won't forget again:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JOtzWqEeIvA/VSLTj6cYywI/AAAAAAAACwI/uoxvg_v4oWM/s1600/IMG_5933%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JOtzWqEeIvA/VSLTj6cYywI/AAAAAAAACwI/uoxvg_v4oWM/s1600/IMG_5933%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">My insides are much improved from my first version:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BALF1KrgwI4/VSLTiKWsTcI/AAAAAAAACv0/U1oeqsxW5r0/s1600/IMG_5930%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BALF1KrgwI4/VSLTiKWsTcI/AAAAAAAACv0/U1oeqsxW5r0/s1600/IMG_5930%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-21_5mR2CAAo/VSLTj9FZVeI/AAAAAAAACwY/NoleAVnVOEM/s1600/IMG_5932%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-21_5mR2CAAo/VSLTj9FZVeI/AAAAAAAACwY/NoleAVnVOEM/s1600/IMG_5932%2B-%2BCopy.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Doesn't that quarter inch bias seam binding look so neat on the bottom edge of the waist facing? Also, as you can see, I used a snap instead of a buttonhole and button in the fly extension. I just went quick and easy on this one.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">These trousers are also the first garment I made on my new Juki. For the first pair of trousers, I didn't want to deal with a new machine and a new pattern at the same time. For my in-the-flow skirt, I wasn't feeling well and still didn't want to figure out my new machine. Finally, I realized that bonding with a new sewing machine is like learning a new language - the only way to get fluent is total immersion. So I packed away the beloved Bernina, and spent a good portion of time making these pants. Everything was hard - what foot do I use for the overlock stitch? WHERE is the overlock stitch? How do I change the needle position? Everything had to be looked up in the manual. It was a bit frustrating, but it will get easier with time. Once that happens, I'll post a review.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">In the meantime, I want to post a fly zipper tutorial for these pants. This is a great pattern, and I wouldn't want someone to pass it by just because they have never done a fly zipper or they aren't that experienced with them. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The instructions with this pattern have you do the fly zipper first thing, which appears somewhat unique - most trouser/jeans patterns have you dealing with the back pattern pieces first with darts, pockets, etc. What is good about these instructions is that you get the fly zip done right away so there isn't any fretting about it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">For the fly zip you need three of the pattern pieces, numbers 3, 7, and 8:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7TcAjjBUQiU/VSLW8gt7EII/AAAAAAAACxM/S99yFcgH_ow/s1600/IMG_5940.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7TcAjjBUQiU/VSLW8gt7EII/AAAAAAAACxM/S99yFcgH_ow/s1600/IMG_5940.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Number 3 is the trouser front pattern piece, number 7 is the fly, and number 8 is the fly extension (the instructions call it the "underlap"; I call it the fly extension). There are three markings that are really important in putting in this fly zip, so be sure when you are cutting out that you mark them. The first is the big dot on all three pattern pieces:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KGt82Vitsyw/VSLW8ZiCIqI/AAAAAAAACxE/vKmG_cqgNuY/s1600/IMG_5941.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KGt82Vitsyw/VSLW8ZiCIqI/AAAAAAAACxE/vKmG_cqgNuY/s1600/IMG_5941.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The big dot is important so that everything lines up correctly and your topstitching doesn't hit the end of the zipper and break your needle. The second are the two notches on all three pattern pieces:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-keEG_lPW-qQ/VSLW9VKksBI/AAAAAAAACxY/BR3LX8uenGw/s1600/IMG_5943.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-keEG_lPW-qQ/VSLW9VKksBI/AAAAAAAACxY/BR3LX8uenGw/s1600/IMG_5943.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And the third is the center of the front of the pants, which I am pointing out on the front pattern piece:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e9UyqEsPNPE/VSLW8tvV3SI/AAAAAAAACxI/Z80gVq38qGs/s1600/IMG_5942.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-e9UyqEsPNPE/VSLW8tvV3SI/AAAAAAAACxI/Z80gVq38qGs/s1600/IMG_5942.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This marking is important because you want this marking on the right and left sides of the front of your pants to match up when you zip up your zipper. That way you will know it is a) correctly installed; and b) your waist is the correct size.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">OK, cut out your pattern pieces. Step one of the instructions tells you, "To reinforce front, stitch along seam line for about 1" each side of large dot, stitching through large dot." Here's my large dot on the front pattern pieces marked:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2U-kQkNriXo/VSLW9iSR-jI/AAAAAAAACxc/hHo6H-1iywI/s1600/IMG_5945.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2U-kQkNriXo/VSLW9iSR-jI/AAAAAAAACxc/hHo6H-1iywI/s1600/IMG_5945.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And here I have reinforced 1 inch on either side of the large dot:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bAlhBKqEdXk/VSLYq9uCzzI/AAAAAAAACxw/pzBw6GPL0V0/s1600/IMG_5946.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bAlhBKqEdXk/VSLYq9uCzzI/AAAAAAAACxw/pzBw6GPL0V0/s1600/IMG_5946.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Do this for both the left and right fronts. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Step two tells you to sew the two fronts together from the notch to the big circle. This is what they are talking about:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AymXACayaRY/VSLZWXxUSOI/AAAAAAAACx8/s-NXPccQku8/s1600/IMG_5944.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AymXACayaRY/VSLZWXxUSOI/AAAAAAAACx8/s-NXPccQku8/s1600/IMG_5944.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here are my two fronts sewn together from the notch to the big circle:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--GdCZuo2kKA/VSLZWKu8t7I/AAAAAAAACx4/ni-jS2KXXDo/s1600/IMG_5947.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--GdCZuo2kKA/VSLZWKu8t7I/AAAAAAAACx4/ni-jS2KXXDo/s1600/IMG_5947.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Step two then tells you to clip the right front pants piece to the reinforced large dot:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--eM_uFy8JGI/VSLZ24eKADI/AAAAAAAACyI/cIkdOlWdS_k/s1600/IMG_5948.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--eM_uFy8JGI/VSLZ24eKADI/AAAAAAAACyI/cIkdOlWdS_k/s1600/IMG_5948.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">(To make sure you are clipping the right front pants piece, hold the pants up to you like you are wearing them, and identify which side you will be wearing on your right.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The next thing you want to do is take the fly piece (number 7) and sew it onto the right side front piece. But what the instructions don't tell you is that it would be helpful to finish the curved edge of the fly before you do this. You can use a serger, or use the overlock stitch or zig-zag stitch on your sewing machine. I think finishing the fly this way will make the inside of your pants a lot neater. Here you can see my fly piece. I just used my Juki's overlock stitch (once I figured out which foot to use and which numbered stitch it was!):</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q0-oW6gWCvg/VSLbDgyAvVI/AAAAAAAACyY/UsLPgvgJmTg/s1600/IMG_5950.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q0-oW6gWCvg/VSLbDgyAvVI/AAAAAAAACyY/UsLPgvgJmTg/s1600/IMG_5950.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">OK, now that your fly is finished so prettily on the curved edge, we can return to the instructions. Step three says, "With RIGHT sides together, pin fly to RIGHT front edge, matching large dots. Stitch above large dot. Trim seam above clip to 1/4"."</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here I have sewn the seam.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qldlj3T9S3I/VSLbD5Y7NII/AAAAAAAACyU/R9pfP4QAY40/s1600/IMG_5951.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qldlj3T9S3I/VSLbD5Y7NII/AAAAAAAACyU/R9pfP4QAY40/s1600/IMG_5951.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And here I have trimmed the seam to 1/4 inch:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uINdefNsT38/VSLcBKdFdTI/AAAAAAAACys/aulIEypGECw/s1600/IMG_5952.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uINdefNsT38/VSLcBKdFdTI/AAAAAAAACys/aulIEypGECw/s1600/IMG_5952.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Step four has you press this seam towards the fly:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TLKa3Mgs0zg/VSLcBRY_izI/AAAAAAAACyk/kMt-ASmmbsw/s1600/IMG_5953.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TLKa3Mgs0zg/VSLcBRY_izI/AAAAAAAACyk/kMt-ASmmbsw/s1600/IMG_5953.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Next you want to flip over to the right side and give another good press:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nNAleqZxfzM/VSLcBZ4J2SI/AAAAAAAACyo/deI5mOFO5Vk/s1600/IMG_5954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nNAleqZxfzM/VSLcBZ4J2SI/AAAAAAAACyo/deI5mOFO5Vk/s1600/IMG_5954.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">OK, now we are ready to begin zipper insertion. Step four continues, "Place closed zipper, face down, over fly, with lower end of zipper about 1/4" above large dot and zipper tape extended 1/4" over fly seam, as shown. Stitch zipper on RIGHT edge of tape, as shown, using an adjustable zipper foot. Turn up lower edge of LEFT zipper tape to keep it out of the way as shown."</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">It's my opinion that Simplicity's diagrams on this step are lacking. So this is what you want to do. The first photo below shows the zipper placed down upon the fly, and the end of the zipper 1/4 inch above where the large dot is marked:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e1LUkUsTvJc/VSLdIYSJi2I/AAAAAAAACzA/kMIB33q35r0/s1600/IMG_5955.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e1LUkUsTvJc/VSLdIYSJi2I/AAAAAAAACzA/kMIB33q35r0/s1600/IMG_5955.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And this second photo shows the zipper teeth about 1/4 inch from the fly seam:</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6SVwNW6iD8g/VSLdIcjkduI/AAAAAAAACzI/-8bPj4d6ep0/s1600/IMG_5956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6SVwNW6iD8g/VSLdIcjkduI/AAAAAAAACzI/-8bPj4d6ep0/s1600/IMG_5956.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Once I had the zipper placed as above, I pinned the left zipper tape to hold the zipper in place, and then sewed the right zipper tape:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--Rd7end1AQE/VSLdIUJDYrI/AAAAAAAACzE/D3fifQO8Zd0/s1600/IMG_5957.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--Rd7end1AQE/VSLdIUJDYrI/AAAAAAAACzE/D3fifQO8Zd0/s1600/IMG_5957.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Then, as per the instructions, I turned up the lower end of the left zipper tape to keep it out of the way:</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ww4_e1WxbgA/VSLdJSIzuVI/AAAAAAAACzU/t_VccCrBIjM/s1600/IMG_5958.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ww4_e1WxbgA/VSLdJSIzuVI/AAAAAAAACzU/t_VccCrBIjM/s1600/IMG_5958.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Step 5 has you turn the fly to inside along the seamline and press which I did:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KQ-Bv179JN8/VSLdJqdoNUI/AAAAAAAACzc/QP4UJ04sBfI/s1600/IMG_5959.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KQ-Bv179JN8/VSLdJqdoNUI/AAAAAAAACzc/QP4UJ04sBfI/s1600/IMG_5959.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Step six actually has you sewing your zipper topstitching which is a surprise because for the zipper flys I have done, this is usually the last step. But I am happy to do the topstitching in step six and get it over with because I usually stress about it since is the only visible part of the zipper insertion anyone will see.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">But the instructions in step six have you basting the stitch line and all that, which I don't do. This is how I mark where to topstitch: I take pattern piece 3 and I trace onto a scrap piece of tissue paper the shape of my topstitching:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JpeY5omh1KQ/VSLfblw78OI/AAAAAAAACzs/OJix1gw_u8s/s1600/IMG_5960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JpeY5omh1KQ/VSLfblw78OI/AAAAAAAACzs/OJix1gw_u8s/s1600/IMG_5960.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Then I place it on top of my right front piece:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hr-cb9Ytzfs/VSLfbi6GiLI/AAAAAAAACz0/ldSN5Gug_Mg/s1600/IMG_5961.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hr-cb9Ytzfs/VSLfbi6GiLI/AAAAAAAACz0/ldSN5Gug_Mg/s1600/IMG_5961.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And stitch around the edge:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fym7s9EphkU/VSLfbm-rcjI/AAAAAAAACzw/w50y-NyNPRk/s1600/IMG_5962.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fym7s9EphkU/VSLfbm-rcjI/AAAAAAAACzw/w50y-NyNPRk/s1600/IMG_5962.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Then remove the tissue template:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JGjP6H2lQd4/VSLfcZpY34I/AAAAAAAAC0E/_pZ8IaG5lgI/s1600/IMG_5963.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JGjP6H2lQd4/VSLfcZpY34I/AAAAAAAAC0E/_pZ8IaG5lgI/s1600/IMG_5963.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And ta-da!! Topstitching done with no marking or basting. Basically, front fly topstitching without tears. (I'm using red thread, of course, so y'all can see what I am doing.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">OK, the right side is done. Let's work on the left side.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Step seven says, "Make a 3/8" clip at large dot in LEFT front. Press under 3/8" above clip." Here I have clipped and pressed:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yLep1GzIb5U/VSLgrGSODRI/AAAAAAAAC0U/sTA6jdXY86U/s1600/IMG_5967.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yLep1GzIb5U/VSLgrGSODRI/AAAAAAAAC0U/sTA6jdXY86U/s1600/IMG_5967.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Step eight says, "Open zipper. Pin left front over zipper tape close to teeth. Baste." So here you can see I nestled the left front folded edge close to the zipper tape:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wkl8mbDn28g/VSLgrLAjTjI/AAAAAAAAC0Q/ivmT__Dkg14/s1600/IMG_5968.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wkl8mbDn28g/VSLgrLAjTjI/AAAAAAAAC0Q/ivmT__Dkg14/s1600/IMG_5968.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And I actually hand baste the zipper to the left front edge, which is one of the few times I ever hand baste ANYTHING:</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NB-SS8puD94/VSLgrJrVvvI/AAAAAAAAC0Y/z-n59_1I-Yo/s1600/IMG_5969.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NB-SS8puD94/VSLgrJrVvvI/AAAAAAAAC0Y/z-n59_1I-Yo/s1600/IMG_5969.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The reason I'm handbasting is you have two layers of fabric on the left front edge that need to be attached to the zipper so it doesn't move when you sew it in. Once you have it basted, close the zipper tape to make sure the zipper is covered by the right edge of your pants and that the front center marks line up with each other:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SAYiFqbo004/VSLgsMswUPI/AAAAAAAAC0o/FrqzG8y_CG8/s1600/IMG_5970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SAYiFqbo004/VSLgsMswUPI/AAAAAAAAC0o/FrqzG8y_CG8/s1600/IMG_5970.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eA_CVbTFYBQ/VSLgsSyJPnI/AAAAAAAAC0s/-LtO2CKdJFA/s1600/IMG_5971.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eA_CVbTFYBQ/VSLgsSyJPnI/AAAAAAAAC0s/-LtO2CKdJFA/s1600/IMG_5971.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">But don't permanently sew the zipper in yet. We need to baste the fly extension in first. Take pattern piece number 8 and follow Step nine instructions, "With RIGHT sides together pin fly extension sections together, matching large dots. Stitch curved unnotched edges together. Trim seam; clip curves." That's easy:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ty7Nh3UQT_Y/VSLiypLCVbI/AAAAAAAAC08/2V-E6ZcAdSo/s1600/IMG_5964.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ty7Nh3UQT_Y/VSLiypLCVbI/AAAAAAAAC08/2V-E6ZcAdSo/s1600/IMG_5964.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here I have sewn the curved edge and trimmed the seam. Then I turn it to the right side and press. Step 10 has you baste the raw straight edges together which I did:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q6xDbUKyls0/VSLjL4FL6SI/AAAAAAAAC1I/Fc3Q1JOhX4Q/s1600/IMG_5965.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q6xDbUKyls0/VSLjL4FL6SI/AAAAAAAAC1I/Fc3Q1JOhX4Q/s1600/IMG_5965.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">What Step 10 doesn't tell you is to finish that straight raw edge. Again, your trouser innards are going to look better if you finish that edge:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s5uawnhS144/VSLjL1NZr1I/AAAAAAAAC1E/0b_8RC8e7UQ/s1600/IMG_5966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s5uawnhS144/VSLjL1NZr1I/AAAAAAAAC1E/0b_8RC8e7UQ/s1600/IMG_5966.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The rest of Step 10 instructions is a little confusing in my opinion. Here's what you do: line up the edge of the fly extension with the folded left front edge (remember, you folded it to the wrong side 3/8 of an inch). Here's a photo of me beginning to line it up:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EziG1s7UEe0/VSLj5h-1x3I/AAAAAAAAC1g/4kUiwBp4p_8/s1600/IMG_5972.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EziG1s7UEe0/VSLj5h-1x3I/AAAAAAAAC1g/4kUiwBp4p_8/s1600/IMG_5972.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The straight edge of your fly extension is going to line up with the raw edge of the left front pants, with the zipper tape sandwiched between them. Then you baste the fly extension in place. I use Steam-A-Seam for this step:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8m3NsDiTHR8/VSLj5i_maiI/AAAAAAAAC1c/FLmv9dSdm4o/s1600/IMG_5973.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8m3NsDiTHR8/VSLj5i_maiI/AAAAAAAAC1c/FLmv9dSdm4o/s1600/IMG_5973.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fiH0K-Wl6mg/VSLj5nEhTPI/AAAAAAAAC1Y/RKxdqPD0LaQ/s1600/IMG_5975.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fiH0K-Wl6mg/VSLj5nEhTPI/AAAAAAAAC1Y/RKxdqPD0LaQ/s1600/IMG_5975.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Then flip everything over to the right side, and sew the zipper close to the zipper teeth, using a zipper foot to get close:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lBETcR4REDs/VSLj6Ub1raI/AAAAAAAAC1o/6R6x7IbZsGU/s1600/IMG_5976.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lBETcR4REDs/VSLj6Ub1raI/AAAAAAAAC1o/6R6x7IbZsGU/s1600/IMG_5976.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And guess what??? You are done!! Give the front of your pants a good press and admire them:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ARtDhkWsous/VSLlLtqO-DI/AAAAAAAAC2A/kpCLxohRX8c/s1600/IMG_5981.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ARtDhkWsous/VSLlLtqO-DI/AAAAAAAAC2A/kpCLxohRX8c/s1600/IMG_5981.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vhve4PXXxME/VSLmk7q7z1I/AAAAAAAAC2g/HYJjkP1G7LI/s1600/IMG_5977.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wqaMHO9CYcU/VSLmbUu0epI/AAAAAAAAC2Y/iPRARXld2Lo/s1600/IMG_5979.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wqaMHO9CYcU/VSLmbUu0epI/AAAAAAAAC2Y/iPRARXld2Lo/s1600/IMG_5979.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Of course take out any stray basting threads or stay stitching threads (which I didn't completely do above). The last of the instructions, Step 11, has you hand-tack fly and the fly extension "as shown". As far as I am concerned, this is an optional step. I didn't do it for my first pair of pants from this pattern but I did do it for the linen/silk pants above. You want to tack right where my thumb is on the photo below:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MG35T-TfeCg/VSLluDgj60I/AAAAAAAAC2M/5v39Ne8VhBw/s1600/IMG_5980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MG35T-TfeCg/VSLluDgj60I/AAAAAAAAC2M/5v39Ne8VhBw/s1600/IMG_5980.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">But I didn't hand-tack it; I just machine stitched it a few times and called it done. I also trimmed the end of the zipper so it wouldn't show so much.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I hope this helps. One of the reasons I love reading blogs is not only for inspiration, but so as to become a better sewer. Hopefully, this tute can help someone a little farther down the line in fly zip expertise. Let me know if you have questions, I love to help!</span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-67707175627948266182015-03-09T20:10:00.001-04:002015-03-12T09:32:08.278-04:00McCalls 3830 In-The-Flow Skirt!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: large;">A few weeks ago <a href="http://vickiwelsh.typepad.com/field_trips_in_fiber/" target="_blank">Vicki</a> let me come over and paw through her stash in an effort to divest herself of some of her precious silk fabrics (i.e., her spring cleaning exercise). It came at an opportune time since I am thoroughly uninspired by my own stash. (Which probably means it is time for a good clear-out myself and get rid of those fabrics I know I'll never use.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Vicki's stash was oh, so more interesting than my own - silks, silk blends, and lining fabrics, oh my! I took three good size bags home, mostly of silk blend suiting fabrics. Back when Vicki was working she made her own suits, and she has excellent taste. One of the fabrics I snagged a black and ivory <strike>herringgbone</strike> houndstooth silk/cotton blend which was sort of a dream come true, because it is very much in style these days, (or "on trend" as everyone says), and I looked for something like it back in the fall but couldn't find the quality I wanted. Now I had four yards in my hot little hands, and I suspect Vicki had planned a jacket with it, but I wasn't feeling that ambitious. My MS was kicking my ass, and I wanted something simple and fast.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I actually wanted to make some more trousers, after my success <a href="http://goodbyevalentino.com/tutorials/" target="_blank">last time</a>, but thought of matching all those <strike>herringbone</strike> houndstooth rows made me tired. So I settled on a simple, straight skirt, McCalls 3830:</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BENuW2sOHAk/VP4n4gnmB_I/AAAAAAAACuM/TSbMFtbgx6M/s1600/IMG_5910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BENuW2sOHAk/VP4n4gnmB_I/AAAAAAAACuM/TSbMFtbgx6M/s1600/IMG_5910.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This pattern is essentially the same as my TNT A-line skirt, <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/McCalls%203341" target="_blank">McCalls 3341</a>, just straight instead of A-line. No waist band, two darts front and back. I originally got it to make Goodbye Valentino's <a href="http://goodbyevalentino.com/tutorials/" target="_blank">ribbon skirt</a>, but lost interest when autumn arrived.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I cut this out the day after I visited Vicki, but was too exhausted to begin sewing, so it sat for a week until I entered the sewing room well rested and ready to go.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">This skirt was a joy to sew. The fabric was wonderful and I was just in the zone while making it. I even put in an invisible zipper, which if you have been following along, is not my favorite zipper application. It turned out great.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I began by interfacing the back edge with light interfacing cut in 1.25 inch wide strips:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lK8IDyqY3xo/VP4n46xyKLI/AAAAAAAACuI/G1A3OvgabjI/s1600/IMG_5909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lK8IDyqY3xo/VP4n46xyKLI/AAAAAAAACuI/G1A3OvgabjI/s1600/IMG_5909.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">This is the lightest weight interfacing I own; it is intend for silks and other light fabrics. I wanted to provide a little stability to the area, but not make it stiff or allow the interfacing edge to show on the right side of the fabric.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Next, I used the basting tape I got off of Amazon.com after I saw the <span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Georgia, serif; line-height: 22.4640007019043px;">Palmer/Pletsch DVD, "Jeans for Real People" to hold the invisible zip in place before sewing:</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nvcS3biN-a4/VP4n45Wgf1I/AAAAAAAACuE/yAd2kGamon0/s1600/IMG_5911.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nvcS3biN-a4/VP4n45Wgf1I/AAAAAAAACuE/yAd2kGamon0/s1600/IMG_5911.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This stuff is fantastic. It is extremely sticky and kept the invisible zip completely in place while stitching. You need to be careful that you place it so that you don't stitch through it because it will gum up your needle and sewing machine for sure, but it works. I want to buy it in bulk.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">It allowed me to achieve the holy grail of invisible zipper installation:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IBuquBmLaNk/VP4n6VR3SEI/AAAAAAAACuk/gEKJznLC5GU/s1600/IMG_5920.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IBuquBmLaNk/VP4n6VR3SEI/AAAAAAAACuk/gEKJznLC5GU/s1600/IMG_5920.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Perfect matching! Horizontally, the fabric matching is dead-on. I'm pleased.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Vicki gave me a bunch of linings and I decided use some watermelon red lining just for fun:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XLbGMDCZ-3Y/VP4n58tXf6I/AAAAAAAACuc/0QdxM6eicbE/s1600/IMG_5912.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XLbGMDCZ-3Y/VP4n58tXf6I/AAAAAAAACuc/0QdxM6eicbE/s1600/IMG_5912.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's the finished skirt and the lining:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oNxy0o_c9v0/VP4n7ukZ5JI/AAAAAAAACu4/Yxis4vKPm_Y/s1600/IMG_5923.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oNxy0o_c9v0/VP4n7ukZ5JI/AAAAAAAACu4/Yxis4vKPm_Y/s1600/IMG_5923.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U2HhcXtzNhU/VP4n8e81kcI/AAAAAAAACvE/0DACi0vpTAo/s1600/IMG_5925.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U2HhcXtzNhU/VP4n8e81kcI/AAAAAAAACvE/0DACi0vpTAo/s1600/IMG_5925.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And here's a selfie wearing it:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DveMgLS9T0k/VP41rAe47YI/AAAAAAAACvc/B1SbzJbtNhk/s1600/IMG_5913%2B(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DveMgLS9T0k/VP41rAe47YI/AAAAAAAACvc/B1SbzJbtNhk/s1600/IMG_5913%2B(2).JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I wore it with a hot pink sweater, so I don't think this violates my no-black rule. I love it. It doesn't wrinkle and it is as much of a pleasure to wear as it was to sew. Look at the rest of my matching:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f3svXNdih4M/VP4n7IF8xhI/AAAAAAAACuw/AHFADT_hepc/s1600/IMG_5921.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f3svXNdih4M/VP4n7IF8xhI/AAAAAAAACuw/AHFADT_hepc/s1600/IMG_5921.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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(right side seam)</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M_kO2o1N-Z4/VP4n7qQ_CjI/AAAAAAAACu8/NCZDLzs5Gyw/s1600/IMG_5922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M_kO2o1N-Z4/VP4n7qQ_CjI/AAAAAAAACu8/NCZDLzs5Gyw/s1600/IMG_5922.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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(left seam - OK, this one wasn't as good, horizontally, but I'm fine with it)</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I love when projects like this come together. I was "in the flow" as discussed in this Ted</span><span style="font-size: large;">T</span><span style="font-size: large;">alk <a href="http://www.ted.com/talks/mihaly_csikszentmihalyi_on_flow?language=en" target="_blank">here</a>, which I find fascinating. I've worn it twice since finishing it two weeks ago. Of course, since I added this skirt to my wardrobe, my self-imposed rule is that I have to get rid of two. So I gave away these two beloved skirts, <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-tale-of-yellow-skirt-mccalls-3341.html" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2010/02/my-new-favorite-skirt.html" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Next up: more trousers!</span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-4090088848395624162015-02-08T15:43:00.000-05:002015-02-08T15:51:46.162-05:00Trousers! Simplicity 2860<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: large;">I had half a post written about this project and then I deleted it because all you need to know is that I made trousers! That fit!! Hallelujah and pass the biscuits. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">My success is cannot be attributed to my skill. I think it was 85% pattern and 15% fabric. Here's the magic pattern:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--KU7i_D-9FA/VMWJ9l4UdqI/AAAAAAAACsc/2GVWwOmMupU/s1600/IMG_5907.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--KU7i_D-9FA/VMWJ9l4UdqI/AAAAAAAACsc/2GVWwOmMupU/s1600/IMG_5907.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">It's Simplicity 2860, which is one of their "Amazing Fit" patterns that I bought several months ago when I was knee-deep in trying to fit my jeans. I've used their skirt Amazing Fit pattern <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/11/a-palette-cleanser-simplicity-1541.html" target="_blank">number 1541</a> which I've made twice - it's a great pattern and fits well. So I was hoping the "Amazing Fit" for pants would be a home run too.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">This pattern is your basic trousers pattern - the waistline is 1/2 inch below your natural waist, has fairly wide legs, a fly front, and belt loops. No pockets - which was a plus in my mind because I could concentrate on fit instead of a lot of construction details.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">That's the pattern. As for the fabric, I used a wool blend I got from Fabric Mart, the fabric on the right:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b0NIdI3pF4Q/UpJpJ7v0FFI/AAAAAAAAB8o/VHKvFSbda2I/s1600/IMG_5244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b0NIdI3pF4Q/UpJpJ7v0FFI/AAAAAAAAB8o/VHKvFSbda2I/s1600/IMG_5244.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">It's a greenish tweed that I originally planned to use for the Tippi Hedren suit, but when it arrived I thought it would be less than flattering for my coloring. But for essentially a wearable muslin for trousers (the colors aren't near my face), I thought this could work.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I'll rush to the end and show you the awesome results - the trousers weren't hemmed yet (just pinned up) and I took the photos at night because I was so excited:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">These fit like a dream. No alterations were necessary - this is a size 14 average sewn straight up. The "Amazing Fit" series comes in sizes that include "slim", "average", and "curvy" fits. I went with size 14 average because that is what fit me when I made the 1541 skirt, although the instructions with this pattern include how to measure your front and back rise to figure out which fit to go with. I skipped all that and guessed based on past experience.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I'm starting to be a believer on these "Amazing Fit" patterns. One advantage is that they aren't drafted with excessive ease like most Big Four patterns. The garment measurements are provided on the pattern and the envelope and they are for real. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Also, the patterns are drafted for 1 inch seam allowances in certain places (like the side seams) so you can make adjustments. Essentially, the instructions take you step by step on how to make a muslin, without actually informing you that you are making a muslin. For example, the instructions have you basting your seams, then trying on, adjusting, and then sewing for real, etc. I can imagine how Simplicity came up with this "Amazing Fit" series in an executive meeting:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Simplicity executive # 1: "We are getting complaints that our patterns don't fit our customers. What can we do about it?"</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Executive # 2: "Well, every body is different. Our patterns aren't going to fit every person right out of the envelope without some adjustment."</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Executive # 3: "That's why the customers need to make a muslin first."</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Executive # 1: "But no one does. So we are getting complaints. How can we change this?"</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">(Silence ensues.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Executive # 2: I know! We'll fool 'em into making a muslin. We'll write instructions on how to make a muslin without telling them they are making a muslin. We can even draft the patterns with extra wide seam allowances in key areas in order to adjust the fit!"</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Executive # 1: "Excellent idea, let's get lunch."</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I have to applaud the effort. It fooled me. The making of these pants wasn't without some mishaps however. The fly was disconcerting, and I had some problems; I finally realized that the fly was opposite to how I had been making my jeans. These trousers had the fly on the right side (the ladies' side), while jeans flies are on the left (the men's side). My right brain and left brain were all confused. Also, I wouldn't say the fly instructions are a model of clarity. If you haven't done a lot of fly zippers, I would recommend finding a different set to follow.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">It was also a PITA to re-sew all those basted seams once I had confirmed the fit was good. I left the basting in since I figured no one would notice. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I really liked how the belt loops were attached on these trousers - the top of the belt loops were sandwiched between the waistband and the waistband facing. The bottom of the belt loops were sewn into the seam between the waistband and the legs of the trousers. I know some folks don't care for this method, but after trying to sew on heavy denim belt loops for jeans, this method was so, so easy.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The instructions have you finish the bottom of the waistband facing with purchased 1/4 inch double folded binding tape, which I have seen on ready to wear, particularly on men's khaki's or chinos. Several folks who reviewed this pattern said they skipped this because they were afraid it would be too bulky, but I decided to test this theory, and give it a go. I found getting the binding tape sewn on a bit tricky, but I finally got the hang of it. In the end, the binding tape wasn't too bulky and gave the inside a nice clean finish. I will probably start doing this on my skirt waistband facings as well.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I can't recommend this pattern highly enough. Just make sure you find the right fabric for it. My fabric was a "wool blend". I think it had rayon in it (for drape) and polyester (because it doesn't wrinkle very much). A stiff wool isn't going to give you the best result - I'd look for a blend that has drape and isn't itchy. Also, these pants are drafted for non-stretch fabrics. If you get something with lycra or spandex, you probably won't be happy with the results. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">These are a welcome addition to my wardrobe because I have no winter trousers - all my trousers have been long since donated because they were so old. Another pair will help me get through this winter season!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-55993541462104166342015-01-11T20:34:00.000-05:002015-01-11T20:38:57.906-05:00Butterick 4192 - Can This Jacket Be Saved?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">While I was dithering on my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/11/a-palette-cleanser-simplicity-1541.html" target="_blank">never-started coat project</a>, and I realized my chosen wool was teal, I was on a quest for pink wool. As you recall, I ended up just buying a pink coat from Boden, but before my obsessive search was over, I finally found a candy-pink wool online offered as a single cut piece of eight yards. For like 50-some-odd dollars. </span><span style="font-size: large;">(I can't remember from where, and my lack of memory only protects the guilty.)</span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-size: large;">I couldn't pass up such a great deal because you would be surprised how hard it is to find pink wool. Really.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Once I received it in the mail though, I discovered it wasn't thick enough for a winter coat. So I bought the Boden coat, and my back up plan was to use vintage Butterick 4192 and make a pink suit:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Because my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Butterick%202178" target="_blank">Tippi Hedren suit</a> was such a pleasure to sew last year, I decided I would make the short jacket and skirt from the pink wool, which would be a welcome addition to my wardrobe since I have jettisoned everything black because it depresses me. I also thought, in the back of my mind, that a pink wool suit would be lovely for Easter, since I spent way too many Easters being cold in flimsy spring dresses.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">There's no copyright date on this pattern, but I think it is mid-sixties - later than Butterick 2178 I used for my Tippi Hedren suit:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">You can see that Butterick 2178 still has the pill-hat, Jackie Kennedy influence (I think is 1962 or 1963), while Butterick 4192 has more of the mid-sixties style before skirts got way shorter and hair way longer. I'd put it at 1965 or 1966.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The pink wool arrived with dusty selveges, but I didn't sweat it. Since I had eight yards, last weekend I cut off a few yards and steamed it with my iron in preparation for cutting out. Only then did I notice that there were frequent flaws in the wool, but I decided I could cut around them - the pinkness of this wool was just too good to pass up.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I used my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/tippi-hedren-suit-major-shortcut.html" target="_blank">Steam-A-Seam method of underlining</a> the body of the jacket with white muslin:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Then I put together the jacket shell and attached the collar. Of course, only after I had finished for the day did I notice that I missed a flaw and now it is near my front left side seam:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I decided no one would notice and proceeded forward. This Saturday, attaching the sleeves was my mission, and I wanted the three-quarter sleeves with cuffs like I made on my Tippi Hedren suit, rather than the full length the pattern contains. I got them cut out and one attached when a full scale MS attack hit me Saturday afternoon, and all sewing operations (as well as everything else) ceased. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Sunday was no better; I awoke with a migraine. Once the heavy duty medication finally kicked in, I was determined to get the second sleeve set in. So you know what happened: only once both sleeves were sewn in, trimmed, overstitched, and pressed did I notice that I put the sleeves in with the wrong sides facing out. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This was irreversible, of course, so I took a hard look to see if I could live with it. Given that I hadn't noticed while sewing, I doubt if anyone else will notice when I wear it. The sole question is whether I can live with it:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I thought I could. But then I started working on the pockets which I want to add similar to the Tippi Hedren suit, and I pulled out the Tippi Hedren jacket to see how far I placed them from the edges of the jacket, and that's when all my denial fell away: the Tippi Hedren jacket is just so wonderful to touch, to wear, and look at. I had to admit the pink jacket has <i>none of those things.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This wool is cheap, and that's no fun. I love the color but that is about it. It wrinkles horribly. And I'm not really happy with the collar:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">There's the possibility that some topstitching around the collar could wrestle it into submission, but I'm not sure. Did I mention the wrinkling? This is a itchy wool that sticks to everything. And everything to it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And the fit is more boxy than that of Butterick 2178, so the fit isn't as flattering. I hate to abandon it because of the two weekends I spent on it, but on the other hand, it makes no sense to spend even more time on a garment I won't wear. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I've decided not to decide. Rather than trash this jacket completely, I'm putting it aside and see if time changes my perspective. I guess it's possible that in two months I might think, "This isn't so bad - I can make it work!" Or I might say, "What was I thinking???" I don't normally do UFOs - I like to finish each project before starting another one - but I think this is one I should punt on and figure it out on down the road. On to the next project!</span></div>
KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-28162136021256842632015-01-04T17:13:00.000-05:002015-01-04T17:14:05.185-05:00The Year That Was (2014) and the Year That Will Be (2015)<span style="font-size: large;">I've been enjoying everyone's end of the year posts - I find the retrospectives fascinating and educational. I think you have to look back in order to figure out where you want to go in the future, so with that in mind, here's mine:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I bought more clothes in 2015 than any time since I began sewing in 2002. I think turning 50 was the catalyst - on the one hand, dressing too young only emphasizes your age, ("mutton dressed a lamb") and on the other hand, now is the time to experiment before true old age sets in. : ) All my clothes purchases led me to believe I really hadn't sewn that much in 2014, but a review of my blog tells a different story. I sewed much more than I thought! Here are the highlights:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I began the year with a favorite, my<a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-tale-of-yellow-skirt-mccalls-3341.html" target="_blank"> yellow skirt, McCalls 3341</a>:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">And I liked it so much, I ended the year with another one from the same yellow wool from Mood, made with <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/11/a-palette-cleanser-simplicity-1541.html" target="_blank">Simplicity 1541</a>: </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Next up, I made the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Tippi%20Hedren%20suit" target="_blank">Tippi Hedren</a> suit, which really was a labor of love:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I wear the jacket all the time - particularly with jeans and the silk charmeuse lining never fails to thrill me.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I also made <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/03/new-look-6000-dress.html" target="_blank">this dress</a> to go with the jacket, but it was an utter failure due to the lightweight fabric/wrinkling and I only wore it the once:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XgzBJQ4vsWA/UySyTMB9q0I/AAAAAAAACPc/w2ljPQQAgfA/s1600/IMG_5353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XgzBJQ4vsWA/UySyTMB9q0I/AAAAAAAACPc/w2ljPQQAgfA/s1600/IMG_5353.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">It has been banished from the house. So has this <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/03/folkwear-victoria-vest-sewing-room.html" target="_blank">ill fated vest</a> which Vicki ordered me to never wear again:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bOaKix9X_nc/UxTJgNvu2XI/AAAAAAAACOo/70yA-3Jzm_k/s1600/IMG_5332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bOaKix9X_nc/UxTJgNvu2XI/AAAAAAAACOo/70yA-3Jzm_k/s1600/IMG_5332.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I haven't given up on the vest idea, mind, I just need a different pattern, so look for more of this in 2015.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">A rousing success was the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/butterick%205895" target="_blank">Gertie pants, Butterick 5895</a>, in which I went to Gertie's sewing retreat in April to tweak the fit. I made a lot of these and love them:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-us3r8EtXJyI/U1QrDGXDGiI/AAAAAAAACLg/jKZBQ3LwvBw/s1600/photo%2B1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-us3r8EtXJyI/U1QrDGXDGiI/AAAAAAAACLg/jKZBQ3LwvBw/s1600/photo%2B1.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g3QJdHYiSlU/U1QrBvL4sXI/AAAAAAAACLE/5hfN3qqKHJg/s1600/photo%2B(4).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g3QJdHYiSlU/U1QrBvL4sXI/AAAAAAAACLE/5hfN3qqKHJg/s1600/photo%2B%284%29.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6wwq2g8Lykg/U1QrB0CsycI/AAAAAAAACLM/mpgFekULbZU/s1600/photo%2B(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6wwq2g8Lykg/U1QrB0CsycI/AAAAAAAACLM/mpgFekULbZU/s1600/photo%2B%281%29.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wvHZAhqtDCc/U538c3C6r8I/AAAAAAAACUI/Nvn2xU8Wxe4/s1600/IMG_5402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wvHZAhqtDCc/U538c3C6r8I/AAAAAAAACUI/Nvn2xU8Wxe4/s1600/IMG_5402.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Look for more of these in 2015 as the spring approaches!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I became obsessed with linen this spring/summer and had no less than three makes. The <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/04/gabriola-skirt.html" target="_blank">Gabriola skirt</a>:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iNisiDwjn2Y/U1sDo1FAR0I/AAAAAAAACQg/NQ215DX1STw/s1600/IMG_5379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iNisiDwjn2Y/U1sDo1FAR0I/AAAAAAAACQg/NQ215DX1STw/s1600/IMG_5379.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/05/mccalls-6696-take-2.html" target="_blank">McCalls 6696 shirtdress</a>:</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ay8Ahp0X1B8/U29zKAKWN2I/AAAAAAAACQw/qtnnLqzF7bI/s1600/IMG_5394%2B(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ay8Ahp0X1B8/U29zKAKWN2I/AAAAAAAACQw/qtnnLqzF7bI/s1600/IMG_5394%2B%282%29.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/06/mccalls-6891-grinder-dress.html" target="_blank">the Grinder dress</a>:</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0SOmyrTF6WY/U5TCWQwNzmI/AAAAAAAACRU/d7DREytRsUs/s1600/IMG_5410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0SOmyrTF6WY/U5TCWQwNzmI/AAAAAAAACRU/d7DREytRsUs/s1600/IMG_5410.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Sadly, these were not resounding successes. I only wore the Gabriola skirt one or two times, mostly because it is too big. Same with the McCalls 6696 shirt dress, but mostly because it is a little too snug in the hips, and the sleeves are too long for hot weather, which is when you would wear linen. The Grinder dress got more wear than the other two, but at the end of the day, linen wrinkles (duh) and much of the time, I just don't want to deal with the wrinkling. I think I love the <i>idea </i>of linen way more than the actual, you know, linen.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">My big project of the year was learning to <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/making%20jeans" target="_blank">make jeans</a> which was incredibly satisfying. And I can report that I wear the end result all the time:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UKC5Xgujxm0/VCh84kvttlI/AAAAAAAACnw/ObhE2JZbK1Q/s1600/IMG_5795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UKC5Xgujxm0/VCh84kvttlI/AAAAAAAACnw/ObhE2JZbK1Q/s1600/IMG_5795.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sgH13h0TR0A/VCh9FVT7utI/AAAAAAAACn4/lOweg1bewnE/s1600/IMG_5769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sgH13h0TR0A/VCh9FVT7utI/AAAAAAAACn4/lOweg1bewnE/s1600/IMG_5769.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">These won't be my last pair - I'm loving these!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">And I made three skirts this summer. My <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Style%20Arc%20Sally%20Jean" target="_blank">Style Arc jeans skirt</a>:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uUswCG3d_rk/U-ZuGS3N8VI/AAAAAAAACeg/ervSUVyMr3o/s1600/IMG_5498.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uUswCG3d_rk/U-ZuGS3N8VI/AAAAAAAACeg/ervSUVyMr3o/s1600/IMG_5498.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T8L4rcG802g/U-ZuHGQe4EI/AAAAAAAACec/EElo1bbxaWE/s1600/IMG_5500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T8L4rcG802g/U-ZuHGQe4EI/AAAAAAAACec/EElo1bbxaWE/s1600/IMG_5500.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Another <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/07/a-tale-of-two-skirts.html" target="_blank">Simplicity 1541</a>:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-evz6vOD6HrI/U8weZYcar2I/AAAAAAAACaI/qTnWa-fLT48/s1600/IMG_5459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-evz6vOD6HrI/U8weZYcar2I/AAAAAAAACaI/qTnWa-fLT48/s1600/IMG_5459.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">And the ever popular <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/07/a-tale-of-two-skirts.html" target="_blank">Vogue 1247</a>:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DA2ezNjpF6A/U8wefLqHpcI/AAAAAAAACbs/RMbiYDUweKo/s1600/IMG_5474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DA2ezNjpF6A/U8wefLqHpcI/AAAAAAAACbs/RMbiYDUweKo/s1600/IMG_5474.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">All three are well loved, and I anticipate making another of the Style Arc jeans skirt in the selvedge denim that I made for my final pair of jeans.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">The <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/07/a-re-fashion-experiment-kwik-sew-2976.html" target="_blank">refashion</a> that I did was kind of a bust:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zwgx9B4J9sk/U9VNokVbZDI/AAAAAAAACdE/NydTcEnHWd8/s1600/IMG_5486%2B(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zwgx9B4J9sk/U9VNokVbZDI/AAAAAAAACdE/NydTcEnHWd8/s1600/IMG_5486%2B%282%29.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">as I only wore it once. Just too boring and uninspiring to wear, but I enjoyed the challenge of the making.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">One project that I made, but did not blog about, was Gertie's slip pattern, Butterick 6031. I made the slip (and panties) from her <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/search/label/slip%20sew-along" target="_blank">sew-along</a>. While the panty pattern didn't work for me, the slip did. I wasn't able to get a decent photo - it's just a slip and I'm not about to model it for all to view on the internet - so I didn't blog about it. I wear it <i>all the time</i>. It turned out exactly like the photos Gertie posted. It is comfortable, useful, and pretty. I love it. And I love Gertie's sew-along for it because her instructions are step-by-step, hold-your-hand kind of instructions which I need. This slip was my very first knit project, and I really needed Gertie to tell me what kind of needle to use, and what my stitch length and width should be for every single seam. Gertie tells you everything you need to know and assumes nothing. Awesome. I have bought additional fabric to make another one soon.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">And my biggest failure this year was my annual Christmas dress. I took photos of it literally wadded up on the floor once I realized it was not going to work, but it is such a colossal failure, I can't even be bothered to download the photos from my camera in order to post. It was all due to the fabric, a synthetic metallic white/silver icky fabric I got from Hancock's, and why I thought I could make this work is beyond me. I've bagged it up so I can get to Vicki for her future Christmas postcards, as I need to get it, and the bad juju, out of my house. I blame too much holiday sugar and gluten which impaired my sewing judgment.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">So what is up for 2015??? Another jeans skirt, more Gertie pants, and another slip for sure. And I've already started working on another vintage wool suit (pink!). AND, I have ordered a new sewing machine!!! I love my Bernina 145, but while making jeans I realized there were a few limitations - I need a larger machine, with the ability to sew through many layers of denim if I want to keep making jeans (and I do). My Bernina is 12 years old, and while it is a workhorse, a little updating wouldn't hurt. Plus, I'm one of the few sewers I know of that has only one machine - a second one would be a welcome addition.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">So I ordered the <a href="http://www.kenssewingcenter.com/juki-hzl-f600-sewing-machine-p-28463.html" target="_blank">Juki F-600</a> from Ken's Sewing Center. Mostly because <a href="http://lineofselvage.jotabout.com/?p=2092" target="_blank">Michael</a> did. Kidding. OK, not really kidding. Michael aspires to sewing I want to do and he seemed to do his homework before he ordered. And the price was right. I had seriously considered buying another Bernina since I have already invested in so many of the Bernina feet, plus it is the machine I am used to. But to get the larger machine and some of the features I wanted, I was going to have to spend close to $ 4,000.00. Uh, no way.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I'm looking forward to its arrival, but bonding it with it will take months, of course. Forward, 2015!</span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-37122967546400145562014-11-09T15:09:00.002-05:002014-11-09T15:29:51.270-05:00A Palette Cleanser - Simplicity 1541<span style="font-size: large;">This week a friend IRL asked me if, after finishing my jeans, have I given up blogging. Well, no, I'm just preoccupied with new projects and thinking about new projects, and frankly, a new obsession. It's been fun, and I have written a dozen blog posts in my head, which haven't actually made it to a keyboard. Writing is mostly thinking, so I like to believe I've done the hard work, just where no one can see. As usual.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Cleaning up after the Jeans Project took a lot of time. There were a half dozen patterns to sort and store, fabric scraps to deal with, and a very messy sewing room. Once that was done, I began the dithering over what to do next.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">A fall coat came to mind. After making the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Butterick%205824%3B%20coat%20sew%20along" target="_blank">Gertie coat</a> last year, I was enthused about another, less complicated, autumn coat. My Gertie coat is made of camel hair, which is really warm, and the big circle skirt is great for the dead of winter, but I want something less . . . well, just <i>less</i>. I have a <a href="http://www.pendleton-usa.com/" target="_blank">Pendleton</a> plaid coat for fall (my favorite season), but it's five years old now and starting to show some wear.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I wanted something easy. And I wanted to use a pattern from one of the many sewing books I own. I recently noticed that while I buy a lot of them, I never actually make anything from them. I'm not certain why. Probably there's the pressure to trace, which I'm not all that excited about. And there are so many big 4 patterns that are cheap and easy.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">So I found a coat pattern in Sew Serendipity:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7WZz2Tq4h4Y/VF-jRi58MeI/AAAAAAAACoE/7HwwTmb_0ys/s1600/IMG_5799.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7WZz2Tq4h4Y/VF-jRi58MeI/AAAAAAAACoE/7HwwTmb_0ys/s1600/IMG_5799.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The coat patterns are essentially one pattern consisting of different lengths:</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ClcSpF61vLk/VF-jagMx7cI/AAAAAAAACoU/vgdhPcU4NKM/s1600/IMG_5800.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ClcSpF61vLk/VF-jagMx7cI/AAAAAAAACoU/vgdhPcU4NKM/s1600/IMG_5800.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-avnqEE6Z6E8/VF-jarrd4II/AAAAAAAACoM/EqhkyWXVtuk/s1600/IMG_5801.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-avnqEE6Z6E8/VF-jarrd4II/AAAAAAAACoM/EqhkyWXVtuk/s1600/IMG_5801.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HctRcsCiMlg/VF-jaxR8mfI/AAAAAAAACoQ/WblzctwT3NM/s1600/IMG_5802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HctRcsCiMlg/VF-jaxR8mfI/AAAAAAAACoQ/WblzctwT3NM/s1600/IMG_5802.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I was interested in the green wool coat (middle photo), with the bottom photo length. This is an easy coat pattern - easy collar, no lining (but I could make one easily), and only three buttons. The search for the perfect coat weight wool commenced.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">The wool needed to be coat weight, but supple. Not finding what I wanted, I went ahead traced all the pattern pieces, and made my lining from the same fabric I used on the Gertie coat (I bought 7 yards so I may be sewing with this stuff for YEARS to come.) The size small fit well, and I finally found a wonderful quality wool locally (at the expensive fabric store in town) for a great sale price. I told myself it wasn't teal, it was cadet blue, and brought it home.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">But then doubt set in. While the Sew Serendipity coat is cute, maybe it is a little too . . . cute??? I'm 50 years old now. What I love, and have loved, has suddenly felt too young on me, which has left me feeling vaguely ridiculous. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Not surprisingly, I didn't want to give up on this pattern, having traced it and made the lining, but obviously continuing on with a coat that I won't actually wear defies reason. I cast about for another, perhaps more sophisticated, easy coat pattern. I ordered this from the interwebs:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f8Fr0AadLqQ/VF-mdIxGA9I/AAAAAAAACoo/G9DAhRcOXE4/s1600/IMG_5844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f8Fr0AadLqQ/VF-mdIxGA9I/AAAAAAAACoo/G9DAhRcOXE4/s1600/IMG_5844.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The coat comes in various lengths, and reminds me of the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Tippi%20Hedren%20suit" target="_blank">Tippi Hedren</a> jacket. It is easy, and as a bonus it includes a lining pattern. I thought I was all set.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">But there was the fabric. While gorgeous in weight and drape, I had to finally admit to myself what I had denied: the color is teal, dammit.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-adLv1Acykg8/VF-npxUKQEI/AAAAAAAACo8/MM536azS1CE/s1600/IMG_5797%2B(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-adLv1Acykg8/VF-npxUKQEI/AAAAAAAACo8/MM536azS1CE/s1600/IMG_5797%2B(2).JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">(This photo makes it look more blue than it is in real life. Unfortunately.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I don't care for teal. And yet, <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2013/12/christmas-dress-complete-butterick-4919.html" target="_blank">I keep ending up with it</a>. I can only assume it's a cruel trick of the universe.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So I gave up and ordered a fall coat from <a href="http://www.bodenusa.com/en-US/Womens-Coats-Jackets/Coats/WE449/Womens-Eliza-Coat.html" target="_blank">Boden</a>.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">With the cooler temps finally coming our way here in Virginia, I pulled out my favorite wool skirt, the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/the-tale-of-yellow-skirt-mccalls-3341.html" target="_blank">yellow skirt</a> I made last January, McCalls 3341. And not surprisingly, I found it a little too tight. Another little nasty side effect of turning 50. Ick.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I bought the yellow wool at Mood while in NYC last December and I bought a bunch of it, so the solution was to just make another. I wanted something less A-line and longer, more of a pencil skirt, which is more in vogue, so I went with Simplicity 1541, which I made in a stretch jean fabric <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/07/a-tale-of-two-skirts.html" target="_blank">this summer</a>:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I made it the exactly same way, except I mitered the french pleat in the back as illustrated in Singer's "Sewing for Style" I recently found in a thrift store for $ 5.00.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here are the instructions:</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YyAddDakZQU/VF-sA0fUghI/AAAAAAAACpM/wORQnqfr0cY/s1600/IMG_5842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YyAddDakZQU/VF-sA0fUghI/AAAAAAAACpM/wORQnqfr0cY/s1600/IMG_5842.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Easy enough, but mine doesn't lay as flat and shows slightly in this wool:</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ERV6kZ0hb5U/VF-soqyL-sI/AAAAAAAACpY/eKKegIqpaQc/s1600/IMG_5809.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ERV6kZ0hb5U/VF-soqyL-sI/AAAAAAAACpY/eKKegIqpaQc/s1600/IMG_5809.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">If I made this skirt again, I probably won't bother with the mitering; it lays flatter just folding up normally, and no one cares how I manage my kick pleat. </span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BpSyEF9u89g/VF-tfsIRRWI/AAAAAAAACqE/364tWHefixM/s1600/IMG_5814.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BpSyEF9u89g/VF-tfsIRRWI/AAAAAAAACqE/364tWHefixM/s1600/IMG_5814.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I had planned to line it in silk but ran out of enthusiasm and just decided I would wear a half slip with it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I used the same tablecloth fabric for the waist facing that I used on the original yellow skirt:</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x6MmNVjV720/VF-t8AZLA5I/AAAAAAAACqQ/yBWgTDzgAQA/s1600/IMG_5839.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x6MmNVjV720/VF-t8AZLA5I/AAAAAAAACqQ/yBWgTDzgAQA/s1600/IMG_5839.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Also, this time I put in a centered zipper rather than the lapped; it is just easier for me:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I used the same 3/4 seam allowances I used on the last skirt, but this one is tighter because of the lack of stretch. If I make it again in wool, I'll use 5/8 seams instead just to give a little more wiggle room (literally).</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I do enjoy topstitching:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">So yay, I like the skirt. But my sewing these days is in flux. Not only do I have way too many clothes, I have too many that I don't wear. Remember my last count of 46 skirts hanging in my closet? Something had to be done.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">There are a ton of blogs out there dedicated to minimalist wardrobes, but this is what is working for me:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">1) For every garment I make or buy, I get rid of two. So for this skirt that I added to my closet, I eliminated two skirts. This has helped me reduce the 46 skirts down to 29.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">2) No more black. I saw, and wore, enough black in the '80s and '90s to last me a lifetime. <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2009/03/spring-shopping.html" target="_blank"> I'm tired of it</a>. And as I age, it looks too severe on me, making me look pale and tired. Still, of those 29 skirts I still have, six are black. Clearly more purging is necessary.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">3) I've discovered I'm both emotional and practical when it comes to clothes hoarding. I keep some clothes because I used to love wearing them, even though I don't wear them now, and I keep clothes because they are practical (it was cheap! it was expensive! I might need it some day!), even though I don't wear them. One example: I have a black suit with two skirts that I can't bring myself to get rid of because, what if, God forbid, someone should <i>die</i>? Obviously, reason should tell me that if that happens any store in America will have black clothes suitable for the impending funeral.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">4) For the first time in a long time in my adult life, I have put on weight and some of my clothes are too tight - this is a real bummer. Keeping them in my closet isn't lifting my spirits, but getting rid of them feels like waiving the white flag of defeat. I know that admitting it is the first step in dealing with the problem.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">5) I'm only sewing what I feel <strike>passionate</strike> obsessed about. If I'm dithering, I'm probably not sufficiently enthralled with it, i.e. <i>see</i> coat story above. If this is the case, I'm buying what I need and calling it a day (<i>see also,</i> Boden solution above). </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">6) Here's an interesting article about discarding everything that <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2014/10/23/garden/home-organization-advice-from-marie-kondo.html?smid=fb-share&_r=2" target="_blank">does not bring you joy</a>. I'm hoping looking at my clothes about whether they bring me joy will liberate me from the emotional/practical considerations in keeping and tossing clothes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">7) The clothes I have removed from my closet haven't actually left the house. They are in storage in an unfinished attic room which helps me remove them them from the closet. It's sort of a half-way house for unwanted clothes. I'm separated from them, but if I ever need them, they are recoverable. I hope this helps in ultimate separation in the future.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">8) My goal is to own less clothes which I actually wear that allow more creativity in how I wear them. And, of course, good quality, whether I make them or buy them.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Coming soon: my new obsession and why I'm sewing it.</span></div>
KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-2616497687155310752014-09-28T18:04:00.000-04:002014-09-28T18:23:56.367-04:00Making Jeans - Finally! McCalls 6610<span style="font-size: large;">Y'all. After more than three months, I have a pair of jeans! Here's the preview:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lXtNzpEafrk/VChgRlE2ZiI/AAAAAAAACj8/NaFkqqcMe74/s1600/IMG_5787.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lXtNzpEafrk/VChgRlE2ZiI/AAAAAAAACj8/NaFkqqcMe74/s1600/IMG_5787.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">But to back up, after many muslins (I lost count) I wasn't interested in doing more, and it was time to make the Real Thing. I began with genuine American-made 13.5 oz denim manufactured by Cone Mills in North Carolina, which I ordered from <a href="http://www.taylortailor.com/" target="_blank">Taylor</a>. It arrived in record time, and I washed my yardage twice in hot water and hot dryer. Here's what it looked like afterwards:</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KgXc8RzXCpA/VChhEZt_YLI/AAAAAAAACkE/ZTk-qQQLvKg/s1600/IMG_5736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KgXc8RzXCpA/VChhEZt_YLI/AAAAAAAACkE/ZTk-qQQLvKg/s1600/IMG_5736.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I could tell this was real indigo dyed denim because my washer and dryer ended up blue after each washing and drying. Which didn't hurt my feelings, because that gradual fade is what will eventually give me that great aged blue patina of my college jeans.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">This is <a href="http://www.rawrdenim.com/2011/03/the-rundown-on-selvedge-denim-what-is-it-all-about/" target="_blank">selvedge denim</a> which has this distinctive red thread running through the selvedge:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TQ2Z7WelPnE/VChh0BmalEI/AAAAAAAACkM/dE5qQjADYxE/s1600/IMG_5733.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TQ2Z7WelPnE/VChh0BmalEI/AAAAAAAACkM/dE5qQjADYxE/s1600/IMG_5733.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">It was a joy to work with - substantial and it pressed beautifully.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">As you know from my last muslin, I hadn't quite perfected my fit, so I ordered the Palmer/Pletsch DVD, "Jeans for Real People":</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pLOBgVvCaN0/VChiLFH-jiI/AAAAAAAACkU/dhhzslXp9SA/s1600/IMG_5775.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pLOBgVvCaN0/VChiLFH-jiI/AAAAAAAACkU/dhhzslXp9SA/s1600/IMG_5775.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I'm not certain this DVD would have been of much value to me when I first starting making jeans because it emphasizes fit, rather than the detailed how-to of sewing jeans. For example, I don't think it would have helped me to figure out a fly zip, since the demonstration was for a cut-on fly extension, rather than a sewn-on fly extension. And some of the techniques in the DVD look like shortcuts, rather than classic jean construction. For example, the DVD claims nylon zippers are stronger than metal zippers and it demonstrates jeans being made with a regular nylon zipper. Are nylon zippers really stronger? Do we make jeans with metal zippers because that is all that was available when jeans were first made and continue with them because of tradition?</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I don't think so. I recently purchased "The Costumer's Handbook":</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tZdRw9VeRRo/VChso23978I/AAAAAAAACkk/kLcq0xgXis0/s1600/IMG_5796.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tZdRw9VeRRo/VChso23978I/AAAAAAAACkk/kLcq0xgXis0/s1600/IMG_5796.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">and it advises on page 122, "Always use metal zippers in costumes. Nylon zippers are simply not strong enough nor reliable enough for stage use." (This is a fantastic book, by the way, full of useful information, including how to make slopers for men and women. Its out of print, but if you can find it, buy it or steal it.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">What I did get out of the DVD: </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">1. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Collins-Basting-Tape-5-1-Yards/dp/B000YZ5RVI" target="_blank">Basting tape</a>. I didn't know this stuff existed. I use Steam-A-Seam for basting where I can, but the temporary basting tape looks like a great time saver. I need to get some.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">2. A technique for making sure your back pockets are placed on the back pieces in identical placement.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">3. I learned an alternative way to make a buttonhole.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">4. Fitting. They fit three women in this DVD, and I probably learned more than I realize. The drawback to using the methods shown is that you really can't do it alone. You not only need another person, but you need someone who knows the Palmer/Pletsch technique.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">One common pattern adjustment is to carve out more of the back seam, making it deeper - this is very common on women over 30, and my understanding is that Palmer/Pletsch pants patterns have different cutting lines for the back seat depending on whether you are under 30 or over 30. Which I think is both helpful and hysterical.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I decided I probably needed this adjustment, based on the Calvin Klein pattern which felt so comfortable. Rather than go with the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/08/a-very-promising-jeans-muslin-or-holy.html" target="_blank">Calvin Klein</a> pattern, though, I decided to use <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6610-products-23003.php?page_id=96" target="_blank">McCalls 6610</a> (which I used for my last muslin):</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eG9DX31YW7U/VChvTvW88jI/AAAAAAAACkw/9TU23VHr0lU/s1600/IMG_5776.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eG9DX31YW7U/VChvTvW88jI/AAAAAAAACkw/9TU23VHr0lU/s1600/IMG_5776.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Like <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/09/making-jeans-making-progressmccalls-6610.html" target="_blank">last time</a>, I made a size 14; the difference this time was I didn't shorten the rise, and I redrew the seat curve to match the Calvin Klein pattern. Here it is:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qA236UnQzAM/VChvpOy7s4I/AAAAAAAACk4/jpFmTp6CWZQ/s1600/IMG_5729.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qA236UnQzAM/VChvpOy7s4I/AAAAAAAACk4/jpFmTp6CWZQ/s1600/IMG_5729.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The McCalls pattern is the tan piece; the Calvin Klein pattern is the white tissue paper. You can see the re-drawn seat curve in black ink on the McCalls pattern piece.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Also, based on the Calvin Klein pattern, I added 1/4 inch to the side seam in the hip area of the front pattern piece only.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">In addition to the DVD discussed above, I took Victoria's pants fitting <a href="http://tenthousandsewinghours.blogspot.com/2014/08/im-teaching-burdastyle-webinar-on-pants.html" target="_blank">webinar</a> put on by Burda, and in it, she suggests that you use a flexible ruler and bend it around yourself to discover your seat curve. Not to get all personal and all, but this is my seat curve:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DwD2atLNhl0/VChwzcIaUJI/AAAAAAAAClE/zcgvobTfeCk/s1600/IMG_5738.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DwD2atLNhl0/VChwzcIaUJI/AAAAAAAAClE/zcgvobTfeCk/s1600/IMG_5738.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The left side is my front, and the right is my back side. I compared my shape to the back seat curve on my pattern:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L-lgx9sXhiA/VChxCG918fI/AAAAAAAAClM/f3k0f9w5IIw/s1600/IMG_5732.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L-lgx9sXhiA/VChxCG918fI/AAAAAAAAClM/f3k0f9w5IIw/s1600/IMG_5732.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Pretty good, I would say!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">By this time the actual sewing of the jeans was straightforward. I decided to use an old <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-2514-misses-skirts.aspx" target="_blank">New Look skirt</a> made of antique flour sack fabric for my pockets:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zRxxbe0iBd4/VChzJ-uc5II/AAAAAAAAClY/5n-vGec9ttI/s1600/IMG_5739.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zRxxbe0iBd4/VChzJ-uc5II/AAAAAAAAClY/5n-vGec9ttI/s1600/IMG_5739.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I must have made this skirt ten or so years ago before I started blogging, and I've since "grown" out of it. Flour sack fabric is incredibly strong and durable and I love this print:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AB-vlcyI5DQ/VChznKwtf3I/AAAAAAAAClg/tHMdXwVUHSs/s1600/IMG_5740.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AB-vlcyI5DQ/VChznKwtf3I/AAAAAAAAClg/tHMdXwVUHSs/s1600/IMG_5740.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's the coin pocket in progress: </span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-He4yjr7JGBw/VChz2pakrAI/AAAAAAAAClo/hl0sTfSX9GU/s1600/IMG_5748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-He4yjr7JGBw/VChz2pakrAI/AAAAAAAAClo/hl0sTfSX9GU/s1600/IMG_5748.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As mentioned, I used Steam A Seam for basting purposes wherever I could:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KKNeXh3rnQc/VCh0PYSKNkI/AAAAAAAAClw/HP0OoPgsJZ8/s1600/IMG_5745.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KKNeXh3rnQc/VCh0PYSKNkI/AAAAAAAAClw/HP0OoPgsJZ8/s1600/IMG_5745.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I used topstitching thread I ordered from Taylor as well, and it worked very well. I was impressed:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fy1bHS4JuCk/VCh0sz0mLHI/AAAAAAAACl4/0liDGNHhY3s/s1600/IMG_5784.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fy1bHS4JuCk/VCh0sz0mLHI/AAAAAAAACl4/0liDGNHhY3s/s1600/IMG_5784.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I used the fly zipper instructions from the Calvin Klein pattern because I have found they are the best. This time I hand basted the fly closed to make double sure the zipper would be covered (unlike the last time):</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RYy2jarLVzU/VCh1QxoqnPI/AAAAAAAACmA/TOXBIQrM9H4/s1600/IMG_5773.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RYy2jarLVzU/VCh1QxoqnPI/AAAAAAAACmA/TOXBIQrM9H4/s1600/IMG_5773.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Just for fun, I made the zipper guard out of the same flour sack fabric rather than denim:</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AqnuuhUHOiE/VCh1hW6cFKI/AAAAAAAACmI/aOb7ycGn8eo/s1600/IMG_5780.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AqnuuhUHOiE/VCh1hW6cFKI/AAAAAAAACmI/aOb7ycGn8eo/s1600/IMG_5780.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I tried, in vain, to find an alterations/tailor shop that would make my buttonhole for me, due to all the denim layers that I knew would give me trouble. In the end, I used the Palmer/Pletsch method of zigzagging freehand a triangle shaped hole. I went back to my college jeans and discovered that is how Levis made the buttonhole way back then:</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MSjAOkYqY5c/VCh2yihGUiI/AAAAAAAACmU/U_4LRmKYF9g/s1600/IMG_5751.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MSjAOkYqY5c/VCh2yihGUiI/AAAAAAAACmU/U_4LRmKYF9g/s1600/IMG_5751.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">You can see it's no thing of beauty. Here's the back:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hYJ6A7-1ctg/VCh3AZ5SKBI/AAAAAAAACmc/_XmebfIeqhY/s1600/IMG_5752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hYJ6A7-1ctg/VCh3AZ5SKBI/AAAAAAAACmc/_XmebfIeqhY/s1600/IMG_5752.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I figured I couldn't do any worse. Here's mine:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bmQGqhLXhCg/VCh3OaA3clI/AAAAAAAACmk/pcMUj7IIQn0/s1600/IMG_5753.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bmQGqhLXhCg/VCh3OaA3clI/AAAAAAAACmk/pcMUj7IIQn0/s1600/IMG_5753.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">For the waistband, I just cut a rectangle of fabric 4 1/4 inches wide on the crosswise grain, which finished 1 1/2 inches wide after folding in half and taking into account 5/8 inch seam allowances. I didn't use the pattern waistband length; I just used whatever length it took to cover the top of the jeans. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This fabric was only about 31 inches wide, so I had to piece the waistband as it was cut on the crosswise grain, rather than the lengthwise grain. I put the seam at the back, so it would be covered by the back belt loop:</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QZGR9Jsy1rg/VCh4hrqzZqI/AAAAAAAACmw/Qu9ruBqNyh8/s1600/IMG_5758.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QZGR9Jsy1rg/VCh4hrqzZqI/AAAAAAAACmw/Qu9ruBqNyh8/s1600/IMG_5758.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5DRJpMNe7fo/VCh4sZfWITI/AAAAAAAACm4/4HFFeXSI6cU/s1600/IMG_5785.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5DRJpMNe7fo/VCh4sZfWITI/AAAAAAAACm4/4HFFeXSI6cU/s1600/IMG_5785.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">(See why you should cut your jeans waistband on the cross grain <a href="http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/yet_another_pet_peeve_waistbands/" target="_blank">here</a>. Kathleen explains all.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I made the belt loops using the selvedge edge so there wouldn't be any unraveling. I basically cut a strip 1 1/4 inches wide along the selvedge, pressed the strip into thirds, and then top stitched the right side. This is the backside:</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5ZUccAgr8bo/VCh5SsyCtdI/AAAAAAAACnA/MuwHpM8khM0/s1600/IMG_5749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5ZUccAgr8bo/VCh5SsyCtdI/AAAAAAAACnA/MuwHpM8khM0/s1600/IMG_5749.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This is the top. I tried two finished sizes: 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch. I ended up going with the narrower belt loop:</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XLJYoWsdVuo/VCh5c2VzvTI/AAAAAAAACnI/eux5WYE2qck/s1600/IMG_5750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XLJYoWsdVuo/VCh5c2VzvTI/AAAAAAAACnI/eux5WYE2qck/s1600/IMG_5750.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Getting the belt loops on was a challenge with my Bernina with this thick denim. I ended up using a straight stitch, rather than a zig-zag, and I hand cranked the needle through the denim rather than using the presser foot. I think the belt loops are on pretty well, but we will see.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dqck9-qByp4/VCh6TMFfb0I/AAAAAAAACnQ/dOcxfvC46TU/s1600/IMG_5781.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dqck9-qByp4/VCh6TMFfb0I/AAAAAAAACnQ/dOcxfvC46TU/s1600/IMG_5781.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I got the rivets from Taylor too. I managed the rivets on the coin pocket by myself, but the shanks of the "nail" part of the rivets were too long for the regular pockets. Using the denim spacers as <a href="http://www.taylortailor.com/category/tutorials/" target="_blank">Taylor suggests</a> did not work for me. I got The Carpenter to use his wire cutters to shorten the nail part, and then he pounded in the rivets on the front side (rather than the back, as I was doing). Fortunately, he understands rivet technology.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Even though I had made three or four (or five?) muslins, I still learned stuff while making these jeans. It became clear to me that your front pockets aren't meant to lie flat when you construct them; if they did, you wouldn't have any ease to get your hands inside them. And I finally noticed the little tack on the front stitching of the fly which secures your zipper guard at the bottom of the zipper, so I added that. And don't sew your belt loops on flat to the jeans - leave them loose so you have enough ease to get your belt through them.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5B8dKcXGLdg/VCh8gizlRBI/AAAAAAAACnc/NFYJH1xnE7g/s1600/IMG_5788.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5B8dKcXGLdg/VCh8gizlRBI/AAAAAAAACnc/NFYJH1xnE7g/s1600/IMG_5788.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The fit isn't perfect, of course. See that slight wrinkle just below the yoke (below)? I'm confident that indicates a slight sway back adjustment wouldn't be amiss:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ez0IUUSxynE/VCh8sv2L_gI/AAAAAAAACnk/xTn0OEYOjkU/s1600/IMG_5789.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ez0IUUSxynE/VCh8sv2L_gI/AAAAAAAACnk/xTn0OEYOjkU/s1600/IMG_5789.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">But I'm not all that worked up about it. I'm very pleased with the fit, and they are incredibly comfortable. I've been wearing them for the past two days. Which is why the front wrinkles aren't indicative of a fitting issue; they just mean I haven't taken them off for days:</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UKC5Xgujxm0/VCh84kvttlI/AAAAAAAACns/mLom4x9H15Y/s1600/IMG_5795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UKC5Xgujxm0/VCh84kvttlI/AAAAAAAACns/mLom4x9H15Y/s1600/IMG_5795.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Last shot:</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sgH13h0TR0A/VCh9FVT7utI/AAAAAAAACn0/QEjRXti7ERc/s1600/IMG_5769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sgH13h0TR0A/VCh9FVT7utI/AAAAAAAACn0/QEjRXti7ERc/s1600/IMG_5769.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I look forward to wearing these for years to come. The legs are wide enough to wear boots, so I know I'll wear them constantly this fall and winter. The waist is loose, but it doesn't show with a belt, and if I wear a top untucked, who is going to see the waistband? </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Final thoughts:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">1. While these are my first pair of jeans (I'm incredibly pleased), they won't be my last.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">2. But it is time to move on and sew something else. Like maybe another winter coat.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">3. The Carpenter was so impressed with them, I have a feeling I'll be making him a pair soon.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">4. If you make jeans, use this denim. Seriously.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">5. The only way to learn how to make jeans is to make 'em. It's that simple. If you want to badly enough, you'll be able to do it, and enjoy the journey. You won't regret it!</span></div>
KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-47540763111994191262014-09-04T22:16:00.000-04:002014-09-04T22:16:21.297-04:00Making Jeans - Making Progress/McCalls 6610<span style="font-size: large;">Progress continues on the Jeans Project - my plan was to make a wearable muslin using <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6610-products-23003.php?page_id=96" target="_blank">McCalls 6610</a> and <a href="https://www.fabric.com/buy/et-201/organic-cotton-twill-tomato" target="_blank">organic cotton twill</a> from Fabric.com in red. I was excited about using McCalls 6610 because based on my comparisons with <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/08/a-very-promising-jeans-muslin-or-holy.html" target="_blank">Vogue's Calvin Klein</a> pattern, the McCalls pattern looked very promising.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I made a few changes, though, before I even cut out. Other bloggers/reviewers have noted that the rise on the McCalls 6610 is very high, and by comparing it to the Calvin Klein pattern, this appeared to be true. So I used the lengthen/shorten line on the pattern and shortened both the front and back pattern pieces by about a half inch. (Hint: don't do this unless you are actually petite.) And then I shaped the seat seam to mimic the Calvin Klein pattern since I like the fit.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I felt pretty confident of my changes which is usually a portent of things to come . . . The weekend before last I cut out and put together the back of the jeans and back pockets. On Labor Day, I picked it back up around 9:30 a.m. even though I was kinda tired and a little MS-y. Also, I could tell my head just wasn't in the game. But I had a free day, and I didn't want it to go to waste.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I should have listened to the universe, but I was feeling perversely stubborn that day. This is the first zipper fly that I have made that didn't turn out well. (Which is not McCalls' fault - I was all, <i>hey, I've got this.</i>) First, I did it wrong, which I didn't discover until the jeans were put together and I tried them on. Then, it became clear that my left side of the fly zip didn't complete cover the zipper, which is pretty much an epic fail. Finally, I topstitched the fly <i>four times </i>and it still looks like crap. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Once I got the waistband wrestled on this sucker there was only one thing I could do to get rid of the bad juju - I threw the jeans in the washer to get the evil out. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Last night I hemmed them and did the buttonhole. I put a regular button on rather than a jeans button because I wasn't sure if I was going to redo the waistband or not. I didn't sew on the belt loops for the same reason.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I wore them to work today because today was a "jeans day" to celebrate the kickoff of the NFL season. But I didn't get photos until I got home. So they are:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MaOxlSQYxH4/VAkQ-qqVduI/AAAAAAAACi0/FLi1husXUWI/s1600/IMG_5726.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MaOxlSQYxH4/VAkQ-qqVduI/AAAAAAAACi0/FLi1husXUWI/s1600/IMG_5726.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I had been wearing these all day, so they are seriously wrinkled. But here's the verdict: these jeans are too tight. By shortening the rise as if I was a petite, when I'm really not, I made the upper hip and waist too tight. If I had left well enough alone, they probably would have fit fine.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y8yFS4Pjjsg/VAkR73nMdiI/AAAAAAAACi8/qXB88xNSBTA/s1600/IMG_5722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y8yFS4Pjjsg/VAkR73nMdiI/AAAAAAAACi8/qXB88xNSBTA/s1600/IMG_5722.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">What I do like are the more narrow legs on this pattern than the Calvin Klein pattern. Here's a booty shot that shows the waistband too low and too tight:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YUzJ5yiVFbg/VAkSP2WEVxI/AAAAAAAACjE/4qbX5RzHmB4/s1600/IMG_5724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YUzJ5yiVFbg/VAkSP2WEVxI/AAAAAAAACjE/4qbX5RzHmB4/s1600/IMG_5724.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Also, you can see that the back yokes aren't flat where they meet the waistband - the instructions have you "ease" the jeans into the waistband. I'm here to tell you that denim this heavy doesn't "ease". At all. For every pair of jeans I make from now on, I'll cut the waistband as long as it needs to be to avoid any easing. If that makes the waistband a little bigger, all the better - who wouldn't want a little extra room in the waist?</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's the shot that shows the waist too tight and my zipper exposed:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mEmp_bzfe_g/VAkTg2vwMsI/AAAAAAAACjM/8OZMzNjohlM/s1600/IMG_5725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mEmp_bzfe_g/VAkTg2vwMsI/AAAAAAAACjM/8OZMzNjohlM/s1600/IMG_5725.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After wearing them all day, I won't be putting on any belt loops because I probably won't be wearing these jeans - they are just too tight and uncomfortable.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">As I mentioned, what I do like about the pattern is the width of the legs. The legs of the Calvin Klein pattern were too wide. I compared the two patterns and interestingly, the back pattern pieces are the same width. The difference is in the front pattern pieces - the front leg pattern piece of the McCalls pattern 6610 is much narrower. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So here are my choices for my next jeans:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">1) Make McCalls 6610 again, unaltered, which will probably fit reasonably well;</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">2) Combine the McCalls pattern and Calvin Klein pattern - maybe use the back pattern piece from the Calvin Klein pattern and the front from the McCalls pattern and see if that works; or</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">3) Do both. I can make as many pairs of jeans as I want.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Parting shots</b>: Anne got married this weekend! Here's a few photos I took:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RAfHkmbl9A0/VAkZxYUr_rI/AAAAAAAACjs/xzuQk0NNOVA/s1600/IMG_5648%2B(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RAfHkmbl9A0/VAkZxYUr_rI/AAAAAAAACjs/xzuQk0NNOVA/s1600/IMG_5648%2B(2).JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://vickiwelsh.typepad.com/field_trips_in_fiber/2014/09/design-.html" target="_blank">Vicki's skirt</a> in action:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RUa2eo0ZAlI/VAkZUkHff_I/AAAAAAAACjc/bBbzQBevoRQ/s1600/IMG_5558%2B(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RUa2eo0ZAlI/VAkZUkHff_I/AAAAAAAACjc/bBbzQBevoRQ/s1600/IMG_5558%2B(2).JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Anne and Vicki:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VhHo7ycW4ds/VAkZaDGTswI/AAAAAAAACjk/yz5vwkc0UO0/s1600/IMG_5572%2B(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VhHo7ycW4ds/VAkZaDGTswI/AAAAAAAACjk/yz5vwkc0UO0/s1600/IMG_5572%2B(2).JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-963663719472319872014-08-24T16:44:00.000-04:002014-08-24T17:00:06.160-04:00A Very Promising Jeans Muslin, Or, Holy Calvin Klein! Vogue 2442<span style="font-size: large;">Holy Calvin Klein, y'all, I think I've found the Holy Gail of jeans patterns! Remember Brooke Shields and her famous Calvin Klein jean commercials? I don't because I was living out of the country from 1978 to 1981, but I've heard tales. And did you know that Vogue released a pattern in 1980 of Calvin Klein's jeans pattern? I didn't know that, but found this on Etsy.com one day in my effort to find a jeans pattern that is more in style with my 1980's college jeans that I am trying to recreate:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lce3BwyMF0A/U_o-YkR7IHI/AAAAAAAACfY/O2RKWh_YaAE/s1600/IMG_5512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lce3BwyMF0A/U_o-YkR7IHI/AAAAAAAACfY/O2RKWh_YaAE/s1600/IMG_5512.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">My research indicates that it was featured in Vogue Patterns March/April 1980 issue (the model's hair style certainly looks 1979). I went ahead and bought it because the current jeans patterns have the same fit as the ready-to-wear jeans of today - low rise and just uncomfortable all the way around. I figured if I'm trying to get my 1980s jeans back, maybe I need a pattern from 1980s.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I never owned a pair of Calvin Klein jeans. I've been a Levi's girl since I was 13. But this pattern seem to have the rise and seat shape I'm looking for. I bought a size 12, which matched my measurements, and found it to be uncut:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dAA93EjK73M/U_o_zy-VM9I/AAAAAAAACfk/b3HiqA5evEI/s1600/IMG_5514.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dAA93EjK73M/U_o_zy-VM9I/AAAAAAAACfk/b3HiqA5evEI/s1600/IMG_5514.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Although I don't believe it has been unused. The tissue paper pattern had clearly been handled over the years - I suspect this is a sought-after pattern, although my internet searches have revealed no bloggers who have made jeans from this pattern. (I did find <a href="http://www.carmencitab.com/2011/07/calvin-klein-vogue-2442-sunny-skirt.html" target="_blank">CarmencitaB</a> who made the skirt, though. Merci beaucoup!)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I love the pattern. You can see that the seam allowances are marked. Yay. And interestingly, the skirt pattern pieces are completely separate from the jeans pattern pieces. I thought maybe the jeans and skirt would use the same waist pattern pieces or pockets, etc. Nope. Completely separate.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's the pattern piece for the famous Calvin Klein back pocket:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ljUPhfCX_sc/U_pApqHRAiI/AAAAAAAACfs/cTL4mIpnUSg/s1600/IMG_5515.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ljUPhfCX_sc/U_pApqHRAiI/AAAAAAAACfs/cTL4mIpnUSg/s1600/IMG_5515.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Comparing this pattern to the patterns I have used for my prior muslins, I got pretty excited about this one - it looked like it had the fit and ease I was looking for. (I was so excited I actually trace the pattern, which I normally don't do!) I was tempted to jump right in and use my good jeans fabric and skip the muslin, but good sense prevailed. I wasn't happy about doing a muslin, but I made a deal with myself: I would use regular sewing thread and a jeans needle for the entire construction, rather than switching out with topstitching thread. I felt like I had enough practice topstitching away.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The instructions are great:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DO0T3Yunjk0/U_pBcimR-lI/AAAAAAAACf0/SJh8plPFaps/s1600/IMG_5513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DO0T3Yunjk0/U_pBcimR-lI/AAAAAAAACf0/SJh8plPFaps/s1600/IMG_5513.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Very clear, especially the fly instructions. The only thing weird is above; the instructions have you sew the side seams first, and then the inseam, while every other pants/jeans pattern or blog instructions have you do it the other way around. I did the inseams first.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I also took this opportunity to experiment and made one back pocket the Calvin Klein way, and the other back pocket the Levi's way to see which I liked better. I drafted the Levi's pocket piece from my college jeans:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7mStSVJzJps/U_pCME1tY-I/AAAAAAAACgE/HL_6DCD34Rs/s1600/IMG_5527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7mStSVJzJps/U_pCME1tY-I/AAAAAAAACgE/HL_6DCD34Rs/s1600/IMG_5527.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I made the pattern piece mostly by measurement and a ruler:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ze3WsrJtYE8/U_pCHsKXvqI/AAAAAAAACf8/d6dCPe04sHA/s1600/IMG_5528.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ze3WsrJtYE8/U_pCHsKXvqI/AAAAAAAACf8/d6dCPe04sHA/s1600/IMG_5528.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">On the left is the back pocket in its finished size and on the right is the pattern piece with 5/8 inch seam allowances added.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here it is compared to the Calvin Klein pocket:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LzG9dGfUTbg/U_pCt9QKzuI/AAAAAAAACgM/ZEuA44Yo87g/s1600/IMG_5529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LzG9dGfUTbg/U_pCt9QKzuI/AAAAAAAACgM/ZEuA44Yo87g/s1600/IMG_5529.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">You can see that the Calvin Klein pocket is more square/upright, while the Levi's pocket is more slanty (is that a word? Spellcheck says no). </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I used some of the leftover white bull denim I used on my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/08/the-jeans-project-style-arcs-sally-jean.html" target="_blank">jean skirt</a> for these jeans, while I used the grey twill from my Vogue skirt for the pockets:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iQIVImT0XNQ/U_pDilJPpgI/AAAAAAAACgY/D8aKXlxVOB4/s1600/IMG_5521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iQIVImT0XNQ/U_pDilJPpgI/AAAAAAAACgY/D8aKXlxVOB4/s1600/IMG_5521.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The topstitching is hard to see since I only used regular thread on this muslin, but it gave me the general idea. Calvin Klein:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B1hNh9Er71s/U_pD8xdBmRI/AAAAAAAACgg/9zO8pa1y4ts/s1600/IMG_5522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B1hNh9Er71s/U_pD8xdBmRI/AAAAAAAACgg/9zO8pa1y4ts/s1600/IMG_5522.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Levi's:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dsPOG0vNBJA/U_pEKY1Y24I/AAAAAAAACgo/Ooz2yvRPxqY/s1600/IMG_5523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dsPOG0vNBJA/U_pEKY1Y24I/AAAAAAAACgo/Ooz2yvRPxqY/s1600/IMG_5523.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">The real test though was the try-on. As soon I put them on my body said, "Ahhhhhhh!" This was the fit I remember:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FNAlO902k7A/U_pEePrtusI/AAAAAAAACgw/J1Y1R8D8G6w/s1600/IMG_5516.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FNAlO902k7A/U_pEePrtusI/AAAAAAAACgw/J1Y1R8D8G6w/s1600/IMG_5516.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YQzBA-xKlkA/U_pEhcrtEiI/AAAAAAAACg4/f_qRpjLIba8/s1600/IMG_5519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YQzBA-xKlkA/U_pEhcrtEiI/AAAAAAAACg4/f_qRpjLIba8/s1600/IMG_5519.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8Tbt5lLQh4Q/U_pElUzmT4I/AAAAAAAAChI/BS0ZEzD0_os/s1600/IMG_5520.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8Tbt5lLQh4Q/U_pElUzmT4I/AAAAAAAAChI/BS0ZEzD0_os/s1600/IMG_5520.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">It's not perfect, of course, but the seat curve is extremely comfortable, and what I am looking for. Changes I want to make: 1) lower the rise in the front to be just below the belly button (I found out how to make this alteration <a href="http://cationdesigns.blogspot.com/2013/09/pants-pattern-alterations.html" target="_blank">here</a>); and 2) and I need to narrow the thighs (which I haven't quite figured out how to achieve yet other than to find other patterns with a closer fit and frankenpattern the whole she-bang).</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Here's the back which shows the excess fabric in the back thigh area that needs to be eliminated:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">If anyone has any ideas how to achieve this, I'm all ears! You can see that I made the waistband from some blue denim fabric, leftover from another muslin. The pattern comes with a contoured waistband, but an examination of my college Levis shows that they were made with just a long rectangle of fabric cut on the crosswise grain with no interfacing. So I gave it a try, and I like it. The crosswise grain has more stretch (and who doesn't like stretch in the waistband?) and the crosswise grain is less likely to shrink (unlike the lengthwise grain, which many pants patterns use).</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I also took this opportunity to put in a real metal jean zipper, my first. It was long and I just sewed over it while sewing on the waistband. I didn't break a needle, but I probably just got lucky.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">You can see I've turned up the length - these jeans finish 33 1/4 inches long, which is way long for me and I have pretty long legs, as most of my height is in my legs, not my torso.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So as pleased as I am with this muslin, you would think I would go about making my pattern changes and get on with making the real jeans. You would be wrong. I'm taking a detour and making some jeans from McCall's 6610 because I am crazy. I guess I want to see if there are aspects of this pattern that I like that I can incorporate into my final real jeans. The one difference is that I am making a wearable muslin of <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6610-products-23003.php?page_id=96" target="_blank">McCalls 6610</a>, rather than a real muslin, because sometimes you just have to make something you can really wear. I making them in a red twill. More to come on that.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">One tip I want to share for topstitching jeans, and it's not my tip, but I wanted to pass it along. Somewhere, in all my jeans research, I read that when you are using topstitching thread you should tighten your upper thread tension, which sounds backwards. Logically, it sounds like you should loosen your tension with a thicker thread. I read (and I'm sorry I can't remember who gave this advice so I can give credit where credit is due) that you should adjust your tension from a 4 on your Bernina to 7. I tried it and it worked:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The bottom stitching on the pocket illustrates the tension set at 4 on the wrong of your fabric. The top line illustrates tighter tension set at 7. Here's a close up - you can see how much better the tension is when it is tighter:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's the finished pocket on the right side with proper topstitching thread and tension:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">(Again, I used topstiching thread on top and regular thread in the bobbin, with the tension set at 7.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Parting Shots: </b>The Carpenter got bored taking regular photos and felt we should be more "arty". I can't say we succeeded:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">P.S. I'm trying not to freak out about how huge my ass looks in these photos . . .</span><br />
<br />KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-6584434549446469472014-08-09T16:00:00.002-04:002014-08-10T14:20:31.145-04:00The Jeans Project - Style Arc's Sally Jean Skirt<span style="font-size: large;">The jeans saga continues! My sewing goal is to make my own pair of well fitting, non-low rise, 100% cotton jeans of quality heavy denim. I've been flagging a bit, for various reasons, but achieved more progress today than I expected: I finished a jean skirt.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Why a skirt instead of a pair of jeans? Well, for a couple of reasons. First, I was tired of making a muslins; I wanted to make something I could actually wear and a skirt doesn't take as much fitting as actual jeans. Second, Style Arc, an Australian company, has several jeans patterns that look like contenders, but I had never used any of their patterns before and a skirt looked like a painless introduction to their line. Third, I really liked the styling of their <a href="http://www.stylearc.com.au/stylearc/index.php?page=shop.product_details&category_id=3&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=473&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=43" target="_blank">Sally Jean Skirt</a>:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xK_zzAAZ33c/U-ZuGAI8gWI/AAAAAAAACeI/28LjmdVmp4g/s1600/IMG_5502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xK_zzAAZ33c/U-ZuGAI8gWI/AAAAAAAACeI/28LjmdVmp4g/s1600/IMG_5502.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The skirt has all the classic details of a jean skirt, and is slightly A-line - exactly what I love. This looked like a good pattern to use all I had learned on the muslins - topstitching, fly zipper, pockets, etc.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I've never made anything from a Style Arc pattern before, although I bought a dress pattern from them years ago (which I never made up and now I can't find). <a href="http://blog.gorgeousfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Ann</a> is very high on them as a pattern company for making well drafted patterns that look like ready-to-wear clothes. One of the most important things about Style Arc is that when you order a pattern, it only comes in one size, rather than in multi-sizes which most sewers are used to.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I ordered a size 10 based on my measurements, and based on the fact that Ann uses the same size (I use the same size as she does in other pattern lines, so it was a good guess). Vintage patterns used to be sold this way - you only got one size with each pattern. However, one of the advantages of vintage patterns in one size is that they usually came with the pattern pieces already cut out. Not so for Style Arc. Even though you only get one size, you have to cut out the pattern pieces. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">OK, no big deal. But the instructions, or lack there of, <i>was </i>a big deal. Here are the instructions:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fllEAnAOLzo/U-ZuHgAKBCI/AAAAAAAACeU/ruY737G50Sk/s1600/IMG_5503.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fllEAnAOLzo/U-ZuHgAKBCI/AAAAAAAACeU/ruY737G50Sk/s1600/IMG_5503.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Yep, that's it. One small page of tersely worded instructions. I note that Style Arc's website rated this pattern as "challenging". Given that this is a skirt, I would say the only reason this jean skirt would rate as "challenging" would be the lack of clear, proper instructions that modern sewers expect. If they had provided the type of instructions the Big Four provide, with diagrams for each step, there is no reason an intermediate sewer couldn't sew this without much fuss.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The pattern did include additional information on how to insert the fly zipper:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pQkuyvDnUAo/U-ZuICV84DI/AAAAAAAACeY/Yc4VSI7mKyQ/s1600/IMG_5504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pQkuyvDnUAo/U-ZuICV84DI/AAAAAAAACeY/Yc4VSI7mKyQ/s1600/IMG_5504.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">They look like Egyptian hieroglyphics and just as indecipherable. I end up using the fly zipper instructions from Butterick 5682, which was my very first jeans muslin. I have found they are the best and most clear for inserting a fly zip, and I think I'm going to have to copy them and tack them up on my wall for future reference!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I used a <a href="https://www.fabric.com/buy/el-300/10-oz-bull-denim-white" target="_blank">white bull denim</a> from fabric.com. I had bought this fabric previously for muslin purposes because it was 100% cotton, it was 10 oz in weight, and it was reasonably priced. I didn't know what "bull denim" was but research revealed that it is solid colored twill denim where the threads used to weave the denim are all the same color, as opposed to classic denim, where some of the threads are white and some are dyed indigo blue. (Just so you know).</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I thought a white jean skirt would be classic for summer, and by using white topstitching thread, I wouldn't have to stress about whether my stitching was perfect or not.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Cutting out was no problem. The pattern called for different seam allowances in different areas, but mostly required a 3/8 seam allowance, which precluded any real flat-felled seams, so I went with mock-felled ones. I used a size 16 needle, jeans thread for the seams, and topstitching thread for my topstitching. All of my topstitching was done with a stitch length set at 4 on my Bernina. I found that my topstitching looked best with jeans thread in the bobbin, and the topstitching thread only in the needle.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bXT0KzGFW8g/U-ZuJexxu2I/AAAAAAAACe0/OqzgS1eCLFU/s1600/IMG_5507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bXT0KzGFW8g/U-ZuJexxu2I/AAAAAAAACe0/OqzgS1eCLFU/s1600/IMG_5507.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The pattern pieces went together beautifully, but thank God I had learned how to do jeans pockets from prior muslins, particularly Kwik Sew 3193, or I would have never figured it out. For my pocket bags, I used white oxford cotton from an old button down shirt. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Everything was going along pretty well, until I tried to make the buttonhole in the waistband. Berninas are known for their excellent buttonholes but I think mine got flumfloxed by all the denim layers. It wasn't working, and I ended up ripping out the buttonhole - twice. So I skipped that part, and went on to the belt loops - nope, my Bernina wasn't having any of that either. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I gave up, and went over to Vicki's and used her new Brother Laura Ashley which has this thingy-ma-bob that automatically measures your button and stitches your buttonhole to the correct length. Awesome. It made a fantastic keyhole buttonhole in my waistband and now I want the Laura Ashley so badly, I can taste it. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">But Vicki's machine still couldn't handle my belt loops - I got three on but in a very haphazard fashion - so I decided my belt loop technique was probably the problem. I had too many layers for either sewing machine to handle.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">(And by the way, while the instructions tell you to sew the belt loops where indicated, no where on the pattern pieces are there any markings for belt loops. I ended up pulling out various Levis I own and figuring it out.)</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gv1FdG8y-zw/U-ZuI5QhHCI/AAAAAAAACew/e-5isw1cLAo/s1600/IMG_5505.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gv1FdG8y-zw/U-ZuI5QhHCI/AAAAAAAACew/e-5isw1cLAo/s1600/IMG_5505.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">So that is where my jean skirt sat for several weeks. Things I still needed to do: attach the jean button which I had ordered from <a href="http://www.taylortailor.com/category/tutorials/" target="_blank">Taylor Tailor</a>, make less bulky belt loops and attach them, and hem the skirt. This morning, I picked up the jean button and read Taylor's instructions, and decided this was a job for The Carpenter. I was able to get the nail through the waistband in the exact spot I wanted the button to go, and then The Carpenter nailed the button on, wacking it from the wrong side of the waistband until the jean button was attached and did not turn. After all my worrying about this step, it ended up being the easiest part of the whole project!</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KZY2bPlGzw8/U-ZuKaqFJ7I/AAAAAAAACfE/nFs9i25mvGs/s1600/IMG_5506.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KZY2bPlGzw8/U-ZuKaqFJ7I/AAAAAAAACfE/nFs9i25mvGs/s1600/IMG_5506.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Then I made two new belt loops, where I cut a strip of the denim 3 times the width I wanted the belt loops to be, and folded it in thirds, and topstiched. Voila - easier than the original belt loops, and less bulky. My Bernina sewed them on (I only had the two left in front to do) like a boss, so any problems previously was my error, not the machine's.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Next, since I was on a roll, I put in the hem. The skirt called for a 3/4 inch hem, but that wasn't going to be above my knee - I ended up putting in a 2 inch hem and topstitching 1 inch from the skirt edge. And I was done. Before noon. Here's the finished skirt:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">It's a real jean skirt, y'all. Here's the back:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T8L4rcG802g/U-ZuHGQe4EI/AAAAAAAACeQ/WOQi6l68Mms/s1600/IMG_5500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T8L4rcG802g/U-ZuHGQe4EI/AAAAAAAACeQ/WOQi6l68Mms/s1600/IMG_5500.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">What I like about this skirt is that the back waist hits at your real waist, while the front waist is lower, a little below your belly button, which is how I like my jeans to fit. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I didn't put any fancy topstiching on the back pockets for the simple reason that I forgot:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YiaV-YWs0D8/U-ZuJ2mSHuI/AAAAAAAACfA/M6lGw1Cg1U0/s1600/IMG_5508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YiaV-YWs0D8/U-ZuJ2mSHuI/AAAAAAAACfA/M6lGw1Cg1U0/s1600/IMG_5508.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I didn't use rivets on the pockets because I didn't want the stress of making holes in my skirt after all the work of making this skirt! Plus, I think the white skirt looks fine without them.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The skirt fits great. I mean, there is nothing about it I would change and I would even be willing to make this pattern in "real" denim and proud to wear it. While I was making it, the lack of clear instructions made me eliminate the possibility of using any of Style Arc's jeans patterns, but now that the skirt is done, and looks so ready to wear, I might have to give Style Arc another look!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I'm getting closer to my jeans reality. One issue I still haven't dealt with: using a real metal jeans zipper. On this skirt, I used a regular nylon zipper. My concern with a metal zipper is that sewing over the teeth is probably going to break a needle. I need to figure out how you shorten a jeans zipper or sew over it in the waistband without breaking a needle. (I think it involves pliers and pulling the teeth out one by one.) More research.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">And more fitting muslins need to be done. But at least now I have a finish that has gotten me closer to the goal!</span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-79981965123564993562014-07-27T15:50:00.000-04:002014-07-27T21:25:24.437-04:00A Re-Fashion Experiment & Kwik Sew 2976<span style="font-size: large;">Recently, I went through my closet and did what you are supposed to do - pull out everything you haven't worn in a year. I generally oppose this approach because I'm an emotional clothes hoarder - I'll keep something I'm not wearing if I just have really good memories of wearing it. (Case in point: my college jeans.)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Now this clear out did not include all the clothes I own. It didn't even include all the clothes I had in my closet. It only included the clothes hanging up in my closet. I counted approximately 160 items. By eliminating everything I hadn't worn in a year, I removed 53 garments. O.K., I confess, I didn't get rid of them all; I actually returned 28 garments back to the closet because I wasn't ready to part with them. But I did manage to give 25 away (11 of which were made by me). By my math skills (which are admittedly poor), I figure I gave away 22% of my hanging stuff.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Out of pure curiosity, I counted how many skirts I own. Forty-six. Wow. Of those 46, 17 were store bought and 29 were made by me. Wow again. That's a whole lot of skirts. I'm not certain anyone needs 46 skirts.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">What did I learn from this exercise? I have plenty of clothes. I don't really need more. But my problem is that clothes making is my hobby, so what am I to do? Giving them away is the answer, of course, but in addition to emotional clothes hoarding, I hate to give away something I've made because of what it really is: a muslin. Let's say I make a dress. Let's say I love it. Let's say that after 4 or 5 years, I'm not wearing it anymore, but I want to make another one with new fabulous fabric. I'm going to want to try on that old dress to see how it fits - do I need more room in the waist? (Rarely does anyone need <i>less.</i>) What size seam allowances did I use? How did I finish the armholes? Etc.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So I've decided to approach my garment making in the future as more of an experimental exercise rather than a I've-got-to-sew-this-because-I-need-something-to-wear. I keep thinking I'm clothes poor, when I'm really not.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">One of those experiments that I read a lot about but haven't actually tried is re-fashioning a garment from one thing into something else. I'm not normally one for re-fashioning a garment, although I admire those who do; I prefer to start with a completely clean slate on a project because re-fashioning is dangerously close to altering or even mending. (Shudder)<shudder></shudder></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I got inspired though, because we have a nice <a href="http://hopecentral.com/hope-thrift/" target="_blank">thrift store</a> nearby, and I wanted to see if I could take a man's shirt and make something of it. Here it is: a high-end Brooks Brothers oxford shirt that I got for $ 3.00:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1YJorZKoJrs/U9VNo85VkYI/AAAAAAAACdY/zmgw_dsXlsE/s1600/IMG_5482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1YJorZKoJrs/U9VNo85VkYI/AAAAAAAACdY/zmgw_dsXlsE/s1600/IMG_5482.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I decided the bigger, the better - this one is a size 17:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zZC4CeEVL34/U9VNo492sjI/AAAAAAAACdI/vD1y8M1-lRI/s1600/IMG_5483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zZC4CeEVL34/U9VNo492sjI/AAAAAAAACdI/vD1y8M1-lRI/s1600/IMG_5483.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The fabric was excellent quality, and the only thing wrong with it was a little ring around the collar. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I doubted my ability to simply take the shirt and play around with it - I need a pattern. So I dug through the pattern stash and found Kwik Sew 2976:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qpzp_EDZRyM/U9VNqG5ur7I/AAAAAAAACdo/fMm4aQMjAfE/s1600/IMG_5492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qpzp_EDZRyM/U9VNqG5ur7I/AAAAAAAACdo/fMm4aQMjAfE/s1600/IMG_5492.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I felt like I could make this work - the pattern doesn't take much fabric, so I wouldn't need any more than the button down I had purchased. It also had the button front and I wanted to see if I could use the button placket and buttons on the existing shirt for my new shirt. I could and I did.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So I went from this:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1YJorZKoJrs/U9VNo85VkYI/AAAAAAAACdY/zmgw_dsXlsE/s1600/IMG_5482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1YJorZKoJrs/U9VNo85VkYI/AAAAAAAACdY/zmgw_dsXlsE/s1600/IMG_5482.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">To thi</span><span style="font-size: large;">s: </span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BU6i9_pQSBw/U9VNtR1A1hI/AAAAAAAACd8/sCdnk-PFY9s/s1600/IMG_5494.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BU6i9_pQSBw/U9VNtR1A1hI/AAAAAAAACd8/sCdnk-PFY9s/s1600/IMG_5494.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">Here I am in it:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zwgx9B4J9sk/U9VNokVbZDI/AAAAAAAACdE/NydTcEnHWd8/s1600/IMG_5486+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zwgx9B4J9sk/U9VNokVbZDI/AAAAAAAACdE/NydTcEnHWd8/s1600/IMG_5486+%25282%2529.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Frankly, it turned out better than I expected. To make sure the buttons and buttonholes matched up, I cut out the shirt with the original shirt buttoned up. I laid the front pattern piece with the center front line down the center of the buttons and cut out the left side. Then I flipped the pattern over, again lining up the center front line with the center of the buttons and cut out the right side. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I used french double bias binding cut from the shirt fabric to bind the neckline, but I used washed shantung white silk bias binding I had in my stash for the armholes; I found the oxford cloth to be rather thick for binding:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mlkeRUN3K6M/U9VNrL2LmDI/AAAAAAAACdw/ZjHaTFh4Zjg/s1600/IMG_5493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mlkeRUN3K6M/U9VNrL2LmDI/AAAAAAAACdw/ZjHaTFh4Zjg/s1600/IMG_5493.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I put on a bias band at the bottom rather than a traditional hem, cutting the bias bands out of one of the sleeves of the man's shirt. I cut them 2 inches wide, folded the band in half to one inch and then sewed it on with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. It gives a little visual interest rather than a usual hem.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l5Qv3YYgXCM/U9VNpjiuefI/AAAAAAAACdc/e2i1oroSNH4/s1600/IMG_5488+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l5Qv3YYgXCM/U9VNpjiuefI/AAAAAAAACdc/e2i1oroSNH4/s1600/IMG_5488+%25282%2529.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k-2lEu5Ns-A/U9VNpxKSWBI/AAAAAAAACdg/4wa4BHpi6JE/s1600/IMG_5491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k-2lEu5Ns-A/U9VNpxKSWBI/AAAAAAAACdg/4wa4BHpi6JE/s1600/IMG_5491.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's a close up of the button placket:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0Wv5LpBxUa8/U9VNr_Nr02I/AAAAAAAACd0/DVra1CJtsHo/s1600/IMG_5495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0Wv5LpBxUa8/U9VNr_Nr02I/AAAAAAAACd0/DVra1CJtsHo/s1600/IMG_5495.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">For three dollars and one sewing day worth of work, it came out pretty well. Actually, the hardest part of the project was removing the front pocket - it was sewn on with tiny stitches and it took awhile to wrestle it off. You can still see the outline of the pocket on the front of the shirt, but I hope that fades a bit in the wash.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I also wasn't prepared for the left/over right buttoning when I tried it on for the first time - I had forgotten that men button their shirts left/over right rather than right/over left like women do. Only then did it occur to me that I could achieve the right/over left by cutting the shirt pattern pieces upside down to the original shirt. I'll keep that in mind if I ever do something like this again.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">All in all, a good experiment. I like the shirt, but don't love it, but that could change with the wearing. This shirt pattern from Kwik Sew isn't particularly close fitting or flattering, and I'm certain there are other patterns out there than can work better. But this pattern was a good place to start because it was "free", i.e. already in the stash.</span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-88698243643918641252014-07-20T16:48:00.000-04:002014-07-20T21:05:49.050-04:00A Tale of Two Skirts<span style="font-size: large;">In between jeans muslins, I've been sewing skirts. And other things. But mostly skirts. Skirts are what I live in all summer because a skirt, a tee, and a pair of sandals is the coolest, most comfortable outfit in summer. I realized this week I don't even own a pair of shorts, and went to buy McCalls shorts pattern, number 6930, because it was on sale for $ 1.99, but Hancocks was out of stock. I'm actually wearing a pair of The Carpenter's cut off jeans today, but I digress.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">First up was <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-9569-misses-miss-petite-amazing-fit-skirt.aspx" target="_blank">Simplicity 1541</a>, which is a basic straight skirt:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lUT6ZSCuTPM/U8weh3yArqI/AAAAAAAACcQ/Jw5Gc5mbQ6Y/s1600/IMG_5481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lUT6ZSCuTPM/U8weh3yArqI/AAAAAAAACcQ/Jw5Gc5mbQ6Y/s1600/IMG_5481.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">I've been meaning to try this one, not only for it's basic style, but also because it is part of Simplicity's "Amazing Fit" line and I wanted to find out if it was really "amazing". It also allowed me to use my leftover pink denim that I used for my latest incarnation of the Gertie pants. I made view B, the middle length version.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">One of the features of the pattern is that is allows different pattern pieces for different figures: the choices are slim, average, and curvy. Sort of the same concept as cup sizes for the bust that many patterns have these days. And the pattern sheet provides detailed instructions to determine what you are, but let me save you time: if you have less than 10 inches between your waist and hip measurements, you are slim; if you are 10 inches you are average; and if you are more than 10 inches you are "curvy".</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">More helpfully, the pattern provides detailed hip finished garment measurements for each size and each "fit". This allowed me to determine that, unlike most Big Four patterns, there wasn't a lot of ease in this skirt. My measurements put me as size 14, and since there are 10 inches between my waist and hip (depending on whether I've eaten pizza or not), I am "average", not surprisingly (I have pretty standard figure). The finished hip garment measurements for a size 14 average is 39, which seemed too tight, since that is my exact hip measurement, but this pattern is drafted with 1 inch side seam allowances for better fitting.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I went with it. The instructions seemed to create more work than necessary, but I reminded myself that I'm trying to do things new ways with new techniques so I don't get bored, so I did it their way. You are instructed to baste the front yoke to the front of the skirt, and then baste the back yokes to the backs of the skirt, and then baste the side seams with a 1 inch seam and try it on.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">My skirt was tight, like indecently tight. The pattern instructions have all kinds of fitting tips, like what to do if you side seam pulls to the front or to the back, but my side seams were completely straight, the thing was just too tight. The instructions tell you pull out some of your basting stitches and pin until you get a straight seam, but I couldn't remove </span><span style="font-size: large;">the side seams while standing in it, so I eyeballed it and decided the whole thing would fit better if I used 3/4 seams instead of 1 inch, thus giving me 1 inch more of ease in the skirt.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I basted the 3/4 inch side seam, and then removed the 1 inch seam and tried it on. Very good fit. But of course, by doing it this way, I then had to remove the 3/4 basted side seam, and remove the yokes from the skirt, sew the front and back yokes together for real, and then sew the side seams for real this time, using the 3/4 inch seam allowance. Then attach the yokes to the skirt. Whew. A lot of work for a simple skirt:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-evz6vOD6HrI/U8weZYcar2I/AAAAAAAACaI/qTnWa-fLT48/s1600/IMG_5459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-evz6vOD6HrI/U8weZYcar2I/AAAAAAAACaI/qTnWa-fLT48/s1600/IMG_5459.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UYVm9QySDtM/U8weaqaj8YI/AAAAAAAACac/j4TwXzN4F5o/s1600/IMG_5460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UYVm9QySDtM/U8weaqaj8YI/AAAAAAAACac/j4TwXzN4F5o/s1600/IMG_5460.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QfBBDsSuo_Q/U8webl2IeII/AAAAAAAACas/fm-SOLAem3Q/s1600/IMG_5462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QfBBDsSuo_Q/U8webl2IeII/AAAAAAAACas/fm-SOLAem3Q/s1600/IMG_5462.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Once I got it all done, though, with the yoke facings and zipper and everything, the waist felt a little loose. Grrrr. Did my waist stretch while putting in the yoke facing? Was it the lycra in the denim? I don't know, which just goes to show, no matter how much </span><span style="font-size: large;">you fit as you sew you never really know until you are done, done, done.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I made the front seams a mock felled seam since I have been doing that on my jeans muslins:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wHJ8OWd8XLs/U8wecCPcZTI/AAAAAAAACa8/vK48WGq-1cU/s1600/IMG_5464.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wHJ8OWd8XLs/U8wecCPcZTI/AAAAAAAACa8/vK48WGq-1cU/s1600/IMG_5464.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3Rq0E6VWGTg/U8wed6_ru6I/AAAAAAAACbY/Ynr7QEZc1kU/s1600/IMG_5467.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3Rq0E6VWGTg/U8wed6_ru6I/AAAAAAAACbY/Ynr7QEZc1kU/s1600/IMG_5467.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The inside view of the mock felled seam:</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o-OlvMPO4Ok/U8weeH19rFI/AAAAAAAACbc/7Q0yNVRU9vY/s1600/IMG_5468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o-OlvMPO4Ok/U8weeH19rFI/AAAAAAAACbc/7Q0yNVRU9vY/s1600/IMG_5468.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And I put in my first lapped zipper, which I've never done before, but again, I'm trying new things so I don't get bored:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kavmTDBq-vU/U8weckdvzgI/AAAAAAAACbE/yRW0A9nBUJ4/s1600/IMG_5465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kavmTDBq-vU/U8weckdvzgI/AAAAAAAACbE/yRW0A9nBUJ4/s1600/IMG_5465.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">A pretty good first effort, but I'm not convinced of its superiority to the centered zipper. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The skirt has a back kick pleat:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HN-gtBfPkpQ/U8wed88NLOI/AAAAAAAACbU/6xmMzhwi_a4/s1600/IMG_5466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HN-gtBfPkpQ/U8wed88NLOI/AAAAAAAACbU/6xmMzhwi_a4/s1600/IMG_5466.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">All in all, I'm very pleased with this skirt (its an excellent work skirt) although next time I might try a 7/8 inch side seam and see how that works. I think it depends on your fabric and its stretch, so I won't know until I make it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Next up was <a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1247-products-14158.php?page_id=174" target="_blank">Vogue 1247</a>:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ucRHwDUCnIE/U8wehqAbk0I/AAAAAAAACcY/XYa_JhyNDg8/s1600/IMG_5480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ucRHwDUCnIE/U8wehqAbk0I/AAAAAAAACcY/XYa_JhyNDg8/s1600/IMG_5480.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Where have I been? This pattern was named one of the top 10 patterns of 2011, I think, but I was totally oblivious. Everyone on the interwebs seems to love, love, love this skirt, with the front in-seam pockets, although most sewers are adding 5 to 8 inches to the length. As drafted it finishes 15 inches long. Which is fine if you are a teenager, not so good if you are over 45 years old.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I knew I wanted to make this in a soft cotton twill - the kind you would use to make a great pair of chinos. I knew I also wanted to make this skirt so I could wear it at the beach, so I chose a soft grayish blue (or a soft bluish gray, I can't tell) from fashionfabricsclub.com<a href="http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p710_12372-sea-glass-blue-twill" target="_blank">http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/p710_12372-sea-glass-blue-twill</a>. The color reminds me of bleached-from-the-sun beachwood.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I made a size 14 but added 5 inches as I figured 20 inches was a good length on a summer beach skirt. I didn't add the length to the pattern pieces; I just chalked it out on the fabric since it was a pretty straight forward alteration.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's the hands-in-the-pockets obligatory photo that everyone who has made this skirt has posted:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o3kwXjDZZLc/U8wefWTYRxI/AAAAAAAACbw/_7NUOD8Ut0I/s1600/IMG_5475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o3kwXjDZZLc/U8wefWTYRxI/AAAAAAAACbw/_7NUOD8Ut0I/s1600/IMG_5475.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">And the back:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4HEUdfCcmDs/U8wegTT8VGI/AAAAAAAACcE/iYAIxvLXF3c/s1600/IMG_5477.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4HEUdfCcmDs/U8wegTT8VGI/AAAAAAAACcE/iYAIxvLXF3c/s1600/IMG_5477.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I used a centered zipper and a button in the back, rather than a hook and eye closure. I also put in a top-stitched hem rather than the blind hem as instructed. The pattern called for some serious seam binding that included the side seams and pockets - the photos of some of the insides of the skirts on everyone's blogs are neat to see, but I wasn't inspired to rise to that level of effort - I just used my overlock stitch on my Bernina to finish the seams and called it a day.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">A lot of the sewers who made this skirt have made multiples, but strangely, I don't feel the urge, even though I ordered another cotton twill in anticipation that I would want to. I might make this in corduroy or wool come this fall, adding another couple inches. We'll see.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Vogue has a reputation of being slightly more difficult that the other Big Four, and I admit that while this is a simple skirt, more than once I had to think about how things went together, and not every little step is illustrated in the instructions. But there was nothing anyone will some sewing experience couldn't figure out.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">More on the jeans project to follow, but that's all for now!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Parting Shot: </b>The Carpenter and some of his brothers before we were evacuated from the island due to Hurricane Arthur:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WIObg1MQD_Y/U8wqctsi27I/AAAAAAAACco/h3N-JlYlXj8/s1600/IMG_5469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WIObg1MQD_Y/U8wqctsi27I/AAAAAAAACco/h3N-JlYlXj8/s1600/IMG_5469.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-91840235638427823772014-06-15T18:05:00.002-04:002014-06-15T18:37:04.408-04:00My New All Consuming Project Where I Neglect Housework and My Husband<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large; text-align: left;">So after the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/06/mccalls-6891-grinder-dress.html" target="_blank">Grinder Dress</a>, I needed a project that paradoxically provided a challenge and would be a probable success . . .</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large; text-align: left;">So I returned to Gertie's high-waisted pants/jeans, Butterick 5895. As you might have guessed, I absolutely <i>love </i>this pattern:</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i6VPSWqfK60/UzcYRGNezLI/AAAAAAAACPs/JEtSl-XSFdc/s1600/IMG_5363.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i6VPSWqfK60/UzcYRGNezLI/AAAAAAAACPs/JEtSl-XSFdc/s1600/IMG_5363.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(If you ever wanted to make pants, this is the pattern to use!)<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Counting the two muslins, the two pairs of pants of cotton sateen, and the skirt I made, I've made 5 garments from this pattern. This time (the sixth!), to provide the challenge, I wanted to 1) make it in actual denim and 2) I wanted to make the pockets deeper, and more like jeans pockets so that the pocket bags aren't made of the fashion fabric, but of lightweight cotton. I don't normally make clothes with pockets, but if I am going to have them, I want them big enough to put my whole hand in.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I recently had purchased this <a href="http://gorgeousfabrics.com/shop/denim/premium-designer-3-oz-denim-pink/" target="_blank">3 oz stretch denim</a> from Gorgeous Fabrics as an impulse buy (It was on sale! And it was pink!), a cotton and lycra blend which was a fabric I have never sewn before, so I was all set. And I successfully drafted new pattern pieces to make the pockets deeper. Here are the original pattern pieces: # 5 is the pocket facing and pattern piece # 7 is the front side piece. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5gToOfy3v1Q/U538xht7icI/AAAAAAAACZY/1NxpM3ZuCuM/s1600/IMG_5454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5gToOfy3v1Q/U538xht7icI/AAAAAAAACZY/1NxpM3ZuCuM/s1600/IMG_5454.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The pattern envisions that you cut both from your </span><span style="font-size: large;">fashion fabric. I wanted to take these 2 pieces, make them longer to deepen my pockets, and also draft a new front side piece that would be considerably shorter which would be the only one cut from the fashion fabric. This is what I ended up with:</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k0JPZgsTHxc/U538yNQwT8I/AAAAAAAACZ0/MVlaqEV_RtY/s1600/IMG_5455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k0JPZgsTHxc/U538yNQwT8I/AAAAAAAACZ0/MVlaqEV_RtY/s1600/IMG_5455.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I lengthened the pattern pieces # 5 and 7 by two and half inches, which is the amount I figured I needed in order to get my entire hand into my pocket. You can see the difference here:</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gy1fMLwObos/U538yB-cS0I/AAAAAAAACZw/okzy8RZRQkk/s1600/IMG_5456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gy1fMLwObos/U538yB-cS0I/AAAAAAAACZw/okzy8RZRQkk/s1600/IMG_5456.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I cut the first two pieces from an old pillow case which had suffered an unfortunate hair coloring stain incident not worth mentioning. (I discovered that pillow cases make excellent pocket bags - the thread count is high enough to create a strong pocket and the pillow case has been washed about a hundred times, so there is no chance of shrinkage. Plus, the pillow case is already doubled thickness - very handy for cutting out!) The last piece was the only one I cut from the pink fashion fabric. I finished the bottom edge and lined it up with # 7, and assembled the pants front and pocket as usual.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The pants turned out great:</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WqM98KkMsTk/U538bA1br0I/AAAAAAAACTg/yDp8PUK5XTA/s1600/IMG_5399.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WqM98KkMsTk/U538bA1br0I/AAAAAAAACTg/yDp8PUK5XTA/s1600/IMG_5399.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">That's a lotta pink!</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HSQijLyCthk/U538d1WNTeI/AAAAAAAACUQ/Io-18a8mJiU/s1600/IMG_5403.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HSQijLyCthk/U538d1WNTeI/AAAAAAAACUQ/Io-18a8mJiU/s1600/IMG_5403.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This time I used a button and buttonhole as my back closure, rather than a hook-and-eye.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PbZWx4cGjkE/U538eT3yhWI/AAAAAAAACUU/q2-aeiKRDQc/s1600/IMG_5405.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PbZWx4cGjkE/U538eT3yhWI/AAAAAAAACUU/q2-aeiKRDQc/s1600/IMG_5405.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I did all the topstitching that the pattern contemplates, and I made mock fell seams, which I had never done before. No problems:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kPeSmtUv2-0/U538fv5h2gI/AAAAAAAACUk/K9V7LVmy_EQ/s1600/IMG_5406.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kPeSmtUv2-0/U538fv5h2gI/AAAAAAAACUk/K9V7LVmy_EQ/s1600/IMG_5406.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I'm thrilled with how these turned out and the denim I used works better than the cotton sateen I used previously - it wrinkles and stretches out less in the wearing. I wore these to work on "Jeans Friday" and a coworker remarked how much slimmer they made me look. I think it is because the high waist emphasizes where I am the slimmest (the waist, duh!). And, of course, any time you have a pair of pants that fit you perfectly, you are going to look your best.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">My success with these denim pants allowed me to admit to myself what I had been trying to deny: <b> I want to make jeans</b>. Perfectly fitting jeans. Of cotton. Real cotton - no stretch. Today's jeans all have stretch in them and are lower rise (that's why your jeans need the stretch, so your jeans stay on your body since they aren't held up at the waist - the narrowest part of your body).</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I've had a devil of a time finding 100% cotton jeans. I finally found some <a href="http://us.levi.com/product/index.jsp?productId=27257546&&cp=3146849.3146909.3699766.3146904" target="_blank">Levis</a>, but Levis in the 21st Century aren't the jeans I grew up with. The denim is thinner and comes "distressed". That's not what I want. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So what do I want??? These are my idea of the perfect jeans:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ij-YDVtiFsg/U538uirsz8I/AAAAAAAACYs/n19XTBf7s8M/s1600/IMG_5447.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ij-YDVtiFsg/U538uirsz8I/AAAAAAAACYs/n19XTBf7s8M/s1600/IMG_5447.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AsusClB-4UQ/U538uzFJ90I/AAAAAAAACYw/G1Pm9qhRiIM/s1600/IMG_5448.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AsusClB-4UQ/U538uzFJ90I/AAAAAAAACYw/G1Pm9qhRiIM/s1600/IMG_5448.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RjBMPaC-0Oc/U538vIDM9PI/AAAAAAAACY0/2SEmZM8LsMk/s1600/IMG_5449.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RjBMPaC-0Oc/U538vIDM9PI/AAAAAAAACY0/2SEmZM8LsMk/s1600/IMG_5449.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">These are the jeans I wore in college until I was about 26 or 27, when I "grew" out of them. Yep, I have kept my 32 year old pair of favorite jeans, no lie. I just love them too much, even though I will never, ever fit into them again. (I was 105 lbs in college. I am not 105 lbs now, and let's just leave it at that.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">These 505 Levis jeans are a heavy cotton twill that has been washed and worn to the softest, but substantial, cotton you will ever feel. They even still smell like college. And they were naturally "distressed" by me just by wearing and washing them:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cZt37U-QP8w/U538wDGNqhI/AAAAAAAACZE/tQn8Lg5bS0Y/s1600/IMG_5450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cZt37U-QP8w/U538wDGNqhI/AAAAAAAACZE/tQn8Lg5bS0Y/s1600/IMG_5450.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G84kshlM8KE/U538wkr1oLI/AAAAAAAACZo/BTO5Gny2fDs/s1600/IMG_5451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G84kshlM8KE/U538wkr1oLI/AAAAAAAACZo/BTO5Gny2fDs/s1600/IMG_5451.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">They didn't start out this faded blue color; you can see the dark blue they once were:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AUO-TO5Bp44/U538ws6s6uI/AAAAAAAACZM/GsLZb0r32_c/s1600/IMG_5452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AUO-TO5Bp44/U538ws6s6uI/AAAAAAAACZM/GsLZb0r32_c/s1600/IMG_5452.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">They were made in the USA. Let's just say that the Levis I've bought recently were . . . not. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">OK. So that is the dream. <a href="http://www.taylortailor.com/2014/01/worn-in-and-faded-denim/#.U54VuPldVXY" target="_blank"> Taylor has achieved my dream</a>. He made a fantastic pair of jeans from real American denim woven in North Carolina. It was his fourth sewing project ever, his prior projects consisting of an apron, a vest, and a shirt. (I'm trying to be inspired by Taylor, rather than hate him.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So where to start? A great pair of jeans is going to require the right fabric and the perfect fit. And a fly front. And real flat felled seams.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Every major pattern line has a jeans pattern. (<a href="http://www.jalie.com/jalie2908-women-s-stretch-jeans-sewing-pattern.html" target="_blank">Jalie</a> has an extremely popular pattern but it is for stretch jeans.) Taylor <a href="http://www.taylortailor.com/2010/03/mens-jeans-sloper-and-pattern/#.U54WLfldVXY" target="_blank">drafted his own</a>. Or you can order a <a href="http://pattern.stringcodes.com/main_basic.html" target="_blank">jeans sloper</a> based on your measurements. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I decided to start with <a href="http://butterick.mccall.com/b5682-products-14754.php?page_id=368" target="_blank">Butterick 5682</a>, mostly because it was on sale at Hancocks for $ 1.99:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yDLZwYJk7UU/U538p_WkskI/AAAAAAAACXk/jHrt3uCq75g/s1600/IMG_5438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yDLZwYJk7UU/U538p_WkskI/AAAAAAAACXk/jHrt3uCq75g/s1600/IMG_5438.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In addition to being cheaper and immediately available, the pattern had the added advantage of having different leg styles: straight, boot cut, slim, etc. I decided if the pattern worked, I could use it for straight jeans (in the summer, more likely) or for boot cut (for winter when I wear boots, of course). Also, because it was Butterick, the crotch curve was identical to Gertie's pants pattern and I felt that was good omen.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I bought a 100% cotton twill fabric at Hancocks as my muslin fabric because I thought it would important to mimic the weight and feel of denim. The Butterick instructions were very good; I blindly followed the fly zip instructions, having no clue as to what I was doing, and I think it worked. (It's my first fly zipper so it's hard to tell.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I'll save you the suspense; the pattern did not work for me. Here it is with the side seams sewn to the outside for fitting purposes:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7nPSHWOTyzY/U538mESXwlI/AAAAAAAACWs/AihTgpXN-c0/s1600/IMG_5430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7nPSHWOTyzY/U538mESXwlI/AAAAAAAACWs/AihTgpXN-c0/s1600/IMG_5430.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I made a size 14 which matched my body measurements, but a size 14 was too big. Also, the rise was too low for me. Here's a back view:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x-yrouJszCU/U538o4YEWWI/AAAAAAAACXQ/pR0BMK4yw2Q/s1600/IMG_5433.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x-yrouJszCU/U538o4YEWWI/AAAAAAAACXQ/pR0BMK4yw2Q/s1600/IMG_5433.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mNGw0HLnwHk/U538nkhJGOI/AAAAAAAACXA/oExR0wlyY9Y/s1600/IMG_5434.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mNGw0HLnwHk/U538nkhJGOI/AAAAAAAACXA/oExR0wlyY9Y/s1600/IMG_5434.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SyK6lBVRyww/U538qJDdnPI/AAAAAAAACXw/4zjN73uipoY/s1600/IMG_5437.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SyK6lBVRyww/U538qJDdnPI/AAAAAAAACXw/4zjN73uipoY/s1600/IMG_5437.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I learned a lot from this pattern; in addition to the fly front, I practiced my topstitching for all the seams you would topstitch on a real pair of jeans. But rather than muck about with this pattern, trying to make it fit right, I just moved on. Next up was Kwik Sew's pattern, 3193:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_71lqBI6Xm0/U538tvHJH4I/AAAAAAAACYc/axoaPH24YTI/s1600/IMG_5446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_71lqBI6Xm0/U538tvHJH4I/AAAAAAAACYc/axoaPH24YTI/s1600/IMG_5446.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I didn't have high hopes for this pattern, but I decided to give it a try because <a href="http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/search/label/Jeans%20Sew-Along" target="_blank">Peter hosted a jeans sew along</a> using the men's Kwik Sew pattern, and I discovered the instructions for the women's version are the same, right down to some of the mistakes. I could follow Peter's sew along instructions, which I felt would be helpful and I thought would learn a lot.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">For this version, I decided to use real denim. I ordered <a href="https://www.fabric.com/buy/dl-794/kaufman-denim-10-oz-indigo-washed" target="_blank">Robert Kaufman's denim fabric </a>I bought from Fabric.com, which was a good muslin fabric, but I don't recommend for "real" jeans. (The denim suffers from the same problems as today's modern denim - it's too lightweight and has a loose weave.) </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">In trying to decide on size, I was in the "medium" category, but laying both Gertie's Butterick pattern and the Butterick jeans pattern pieces on top of the Kwik Sew pattern indicated I am probably in between a medium and a small. So I cut a medium everywhere but the outside seams where I cut on the "small" line. I also added two inches in length because they finish 30 inches long, and I usually prefer a 32 inch inseam.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I used regular thread and a 70 needle to sew the denim together, but I used topstitching thread and a 100 needle for the topstitching. (I used regular thread in the bobbin even when I was topstitching.) I wanted to practice topstitching on real denim even though this was a muslin. Again, I made mock fell seams rather than real flat fell seams since it was only a muslin. For my regular seams, I used a 3 mm stitch length; for the topstitching, I went longer at 4 mm.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The only issue with this pattern was switching the needle and thread out with nearly every seam. This is definitely a situation where having two sewing machines would come in handy.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Peter's instructions were excellent, and I had a good time putting it together. I had no confidence in the fit, however, after the Butterick muslin, so this morning, I finish up to the point where the jeans are assembled, but the waistband had yet to be put on. I was pleasantly surprised:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-251guU6A5WU/U538i7j7I9I/AAAAAAAACVo/rPBOk-A9XYs/s1600/IMG_5422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-251guU6A5WU/U538i7j7I9I/AAAAAAAACVo/rPBOk-A9XYs/s1600/IMG_5422.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The Carpenter said, "Those fit better than your store-bought jeans!" Yep, that's the goal. Here's the back:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_dpzzOHA6qA/U538jOh_KtI/AAAAAAAACV0/eJed7OCCaBA/s1600/IMG_5424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_dpzzOHA6qA/U538jOh_KtI/AAAAAAAACV0/eJed7OCCaBA/s1600/IMG_5424.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">No pockets, of course, it's just a muslin:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zyD7jvr6-Rs/U538knt37SI/AAAAAAAACWM/zoqCEJiLceo/s1600/IMG_5426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zyD7jvr6-Rs/U538knt37SI/AAAAAAAACWM/zoqCEJiLceo/s1600/IMG_5426.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_vT9pPzAeSU/U538lyJs01I/AAAAAAAACWk/t3oi4mSALPM/s1600/IMG_5429.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_vT9pPzAeSU/U538lyJs01I/AAAAAAAACWk/t3oi4mSALPM/s1600/IMG_5429.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The fit isn't perfect, of course, as I think the legs, especially the back legs, are too roomy, but they can be narrowed in a future version so these jeans look less farmer-like. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I give my topstitching solid marks:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-winq3i6_uUQ/U538qdQjzII/AAAAAAAACXo/v0YXoJeirlQ/s1600/IMG_5439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-winq3i6_uUQ/U538qdQjzII/AAAAAAAACXo/v0YXoJeirlQ/s1600/IMG_5439.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ya8kBANNqjU/U538sHP7MhI/AAAAAAAACYU/NMN9dGroTW4/s1600/IMG_5442.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ya8kBANNqjU/U538sHP7MhI/AAAAAAAACYU/NMN9dGroTW4/s1600/IMG_5442.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Although not everything went smoothly. Here's the backside of some of my topstitching. Sometimes this would happen:</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-adL2N3OUqSI/U538tYIFbbI/AAAAAAAACYY/ECDxn5lrsUw/s1600/IMG_5444.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-adL2N3OUqSI/U538tYIFbbI/AAAAAAAACYY/ECDxn5lrsUw/s1600/IMG_5444.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Ick. Not pretty. But most of the time it went fine. Kwik Sew's fly front was a little confusing to me, even with Peter's instructions. The fly had cut-on fly extensions, rather than the sewn on instructions that Butterick had. I'm not certain I did it right since the outside topstitching on the front of my jeans didn't line up with my zipper. Something to work on. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">OK. This post is long enough, but you get the drift of my current obsession. More to come . . . .!</span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-1327196438151228062014-06-08T16:59:00.001-04:002014-06-08T17:29:08.322-04:00McCalls 6891 - The Grinder Dress<span style="font-size: large;">You know when you are totally engrossed by your sewing project, so much so that you become obsessed, unable to sleep because you are thinking about cutting layouts or buttons? And where you think about it at work because <i>you just can't stop thinking about it?</i> Well, that was NOT the case with this dress. I probably started this dress over six weeks ago. It is linen (of course), and it is a shirtdress (of course). But inspiration was totally lacking, and I just managed to finish this one by grinding it out. So I'm calling this the Grinder Dress.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">It started out innocently enough. McCalls released this pattern this spring, number <a href="https://www.facebook.com/" target="_blank">M6891</a>, and it looked sorta easy:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j9uZ8DhnvC8/U5TCWYN0hmI/AAAAAAAACQ8/K_46zILh0ak/s1600/IMG_5415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j9uZ8DhnvC8/U5TCWYN0hmI/AAAAAAAACQ8/K_46zILh0ak/s1600/IMG_5415.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">If you look closely, you can see that there is a one-piece collar (no separate stand), no waistband (although there is a waist for easier fitting), no front bands, and only six darts; if you make the sleeveless version (the blue dress in the upper left corner), it should be easy-peasy. Right?</span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Blog reader Rachel emailed me back in March, asking me for a recommendation for a shirtdress pattern, as she was planning on making her very first shirtdress, and I recommended this one. (I regret that now, and Rachel, if you are still reading, I am REALLY, REALLY SORRY! Go make the <a href="https://www.colettepatterns.com/sewing/hawthorn" target="_blank">Colette Hawthorn</a> instead - not only is it easier but there is a <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/04/gabriola-skirt.html" target="_blank">sew-along</a> that will help tremendously.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Still thinking this would be quick 'n easy, I decided to use the wonderful periwinkle linen I got at Mood in December:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ln1hLIcGmqs/UsYEzoI-hUI/AAAAAAAACQc/o36Uye3mXd0/s1600/IMG_5261.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ln1hLIcGmqs/UsYEzoI-hUI/AAAAAAAACQc/o36Uye3mXd0/s1600/IMG_5261.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">So how did it go wrong? Well, as I was working with the fabric, I decided at some point that this linen was probably a little too light for a dress - it is more blouse weight. So it wrinkled even worse than what linen is supposed to wrinkle. It wrinkled just lying on the ironing board. That isn't the pattern's fault, however, but given that I had already cut it out, I just continued muddling through. I ground it out.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">No, the problem was the collar/front/facing pattern pieces. So many symbols: squares, circles, triangles, dots, lines - you get the drift. The construction technique of this collar was previously unknown to me, and I had a frustrating time trying to figure out how the whole sha-bang went together. I can't imagine a beginner trying it. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A sleeveless shirtdress shouldn't be this confusing/difficult. I finally managed to get it together, and then it sat for several weeks, needing buttonholes, buttons, and hemming. I procrastinated on all fronts because I knew the hem was going to be a huge PITA and I was right. The skirt of this thing is a half circle skirt, so it is on the bias at the sides. Combined with this fabric being a lightweight loose weave linen, I had serious side stretch. My attempts to put in an even hem were unsuccessful.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So it hung on a hanger for even more weekends, sucking my quality sewing time because I have this completion complex: I can't work on another project until my current one is done.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Last Saturday, to save my sanity and my hobby, I finally decided to throw money at the problem: I took this dress to the woman who hemmed my wedding dress and begged her to hem it for me. Despite her look of horror (she knows bias stretch when she sees it), she only said in her Bulgarian accent, "Next Saturday."</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I skipped out of the shop before she changed her mind. This past Saturday, I picked it up and happily paid her for her trouble. I wore it to Mass this morning and got the Carpenter to take a photograph before we left and the winkling began:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0SOmyrTF6WY/U5TCWQwNzmI/AAAAAAAACRA/RILx3tptSJ8/s1600/IMG_5410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0SOmyrTF6WY/U5TCWQwNzmI/AAAAAAAACRA/RILx3tptSJ8/s1600/IMG_5410.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">She did a great job and the twenty bucks I paid her was worth every penny - not just so this dress got done, but because once I subcontracted out the hem, the floodgates of creativity and sewing came pouring out of me and I finished three, count them, three projects since the day I left this dress with her, plus I did a muslin (gasp!) for a project I HAVE become obsessed with. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Otherwise, there isn't much to say about this dress; I made a size 12. I added 3/4 inch to the hem for some unknown reason. I added 1/4 inch to the front side seams of the bodice and skirt, just to make sure the waist was big enough, and I sewed the waist seam just a little less than 5/8 inch just to make extra-super-duper sure there was plenty of room in the waist. The color is wonderful, and I enjoyed wearing it today, complete with the <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/search/label/slip%20sew-along" target="_blank">Gertie-slip</a> I finished Friday night.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So ultimately, what was the problem? I think I was just bored. This isn't what I really wanted to be sewing. (Plus that collar thing really was objectively insane.)</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">So I'm on to new projects that I keep researching, and compulsively buying supplies, and I'm in the grip of happy obsession. Fortunately, the Carpenter is tolerant - I haven't been this sewing-crazed since the Tippi Hedren suit!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">More to come . . .</span><br />
<br />KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-89545207133877287492014-05-11T09:40:00.002-04:002014-05-11T09:40:58.728-04:00McCalls 6696 - Take 2<span style="font-size: large;">As you can tell from the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/04/gabriola-skirt.html" target="_blank">Gabriola</a> skirt, I'm obsessed with linen. While it wrinkles in the wearing, it is a pleasure to sew and wear - it takes high heat steaming/pressing well, and drinks in topstitching beautifully. <a href="http://fabrics-store.com/">Fabrics-store.com</a> was having one of their "get one yard of linen for free" sales so I bought three yards of their color "<a href="http://www.fabrics-store.com/first.php?goto=big_fabric&menu=f&menu=f&fabric_id=790" target="_blank">Mead</a><u>ow"</u> and made another McCalls 6696 shirtdress, this time view "D" with the more narrow skirt with pockets:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xrk0ReliZEc/UYxLCpAC_iI/AAAAAAAABkM/-ioQjotGmlg/s1600/IMG_4759.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xrk0ReliZEc/UYxLCpAC_iI/AAAAAAAABkM/-ioQjotGmlg/s1600/IMG_4759.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">I had been waiting to make this version since I saw <a href="http://handmadejane.co.uk/search?q=+6696" target="_blank">Handmade Jane's denim dress. </a>Here's my version:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ay8Ahp0X1B8/U29zKAKWN2I/AAAAAAAACM8/Lv5zjp0tTP8/s1600/IMG_5394+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ay8Ahp0X1B8/U29zKAKWN2I/AAAAAAAACM8/Lv5zjp0tTP8/s1600/IMG_5394+(2).JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">(Not thrilled about the slightly uneven hemline at the front.)</span> <span style="font-size: large;">Here's a closer shot: I made the cuffs as drafted which The Carpenter described as "Star Trek":</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9b-mSRIaDz0/U29zV53lD5I/AAAAAAAACNI/V0t_TjrZ0wo/s1600/IMG_5384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9b-mSRIaDz0/U29zV53lD5I/AAAAAAAACNI/V0t_TjrZ0wo/s1600/IMG_5384.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I've made this dress <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/mccalls%206696" target="_blank">before</a>, with the pleated skirt, in a quilting cotton, but I don't remember the back being quite this blousy before. The linen really accentuated the blousy-factor:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y5Rdb6nyy-o/U29zVwf7trI/AAAAAAAACNE/4DdUtLiUx68/s1600/IMG_5386.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y5Rdb6nyy-o/U29zVwf7trI/AAAAAAAACNE/4DdUtLiUx68/s1600/IMG_5386.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aWZbv2wo_S4/U29zV60NgrI/AAAAAAAACNM/r46-ukLXPeM/s1600/IMG_5387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aWZbv2wo_S4/U29zV60NgrI/AAAAAAAACNM/r46-ukLXPeM/s1600/IMG_5387.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Next time, I will definitely remove some of the width in the back pattern piece to cut down on this poofiness in the back. It's a little ridiculous. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">In addition to sewing view D this time instead of view B, I used the "C" cup front pattern piece because I felt like last dress I made was a little short in the front, and this might be due to the fact that I needed a larger cup size:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UnrhKgjxXf4/UYxKY609q0I/AAAAAAAABkE/FzMNvfQQlxg/s1600/IMG_4748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UnrhKgjxXf4/UYxKY609q0I/AAAAAAAABkE/FzMNvfQQlxg/s1600/IMG_4748.JPG" height="320" width="143" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In the end, I don't think I need the "C" cup - I think this dress has a tendency to pull to the back at the shoulders and neck area, causing the front waist to rise up and I don't know why. I don't know if it is how the dress is drafted, or if there is some alteration that I need to make that I don't know about:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HBHyZjpCZcA/U29zWyyc2nI/AAAAAAAACNo/Fk92zBKYwrY/s1600/IMG_5389+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HBHyZjpCZcA/U29zWyyc2nI/AAAAAAAACNo/Fk92zBKYwrY/s1600/IMG_5389+%25283%2529.JPG" height="320" width="152" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Other than that, I cut and sewed a size 12. I found, though, that the skirt was a little bit tight, so I let it out as much as I could in the hips, given that I had already trimmed the side seams and finished them with an overlock stitch, so there wasn't much I could let out. It fits, but I want to remember to add a little extra in the hips next time.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">I added 1 inch to length, and hemmed with my favorite method, which is using a strip of fabric cut on the bias and then folded in half like french binding. It gives a nice clean hem, and is an easy way to provide length. This time, unlike my last version, I remembered to lengthen the front bands so I didn't have to piece them:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">While I had this dress done for ages, it took me awhile to get the buttons on it; all that topstitching and pressing of this wonderful linen ended up being a goodly amount of work, and I really didn't want to put plastic buttons on this dress. So I splurged for real pearl shell buttons I got at <a href="https://www.etsy.com/search?q=gertie&ship_to=US&page=5" target="_blank">Chadwick Heirlooms</a>:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">They weren't cheap - these 10 buttons cost me about $ 18.00. I can definitely say that when I wear this dress out, I'll be saving the buttons for another project!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-size: large;">Just like my last version, I added an enormous amount of topstitching that the pattern didn't call for. As I said above, linen just drinks in topstitching. It makes for a lovely finish, and helps with subsequent pressing, by keeping everything in place. All and all, this project was an experiment in using Fabric-store.com's linen and it was nice to work with. I'm looking forward to wearing this dress this summer!</span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-77866673027804661302014-04-25T21:24:00.000-04:002014-04-25T21:24:18.974-04:00Gabriola Skirt!<span style="font-size: large;">Y'all, I made <a href="http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/" target="_blank">Sewaholic's</a> newest pattern, the maxi <a href="http://sewaholic.net/tag/gabriola-sew-along/" target="_blank">Gabriola</a> skirt. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">After making my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2013/07/oh-hawthorn-i-love-thee.html" target="_blank">linen Hawthorn</a> last year, I really wanted to make another linen dress, and I found this pink and white striped linen at <a href="http://gorgeousfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Gorgeous Fabrics</a>. But it occurred to me, thankfully, that this fabric made into a shirtdress could make me look like a candy striper. So I held onto it, waiting for the right pattern.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I love me a maxi skirt: I own five store bought maxi skirts and three me-made ones. I was excited about this skirt because the interesting piecing of the hip area:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I didn't bother matching the stripes here, obviously. I decided the loose weaved linen would be too much of a nightmare to do any matching, although now I wished I had tried - I think it would have looked awesome if I could have pulled it off.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I nearly pulled off the matching on the back, albeit unintentionally:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The skirt went together easily; quilters would have no problem getting the skirt yoke pieced together - it was kind of fun! I did a lot of topstitching on this skirt - linen loves topstitching, and it helps control wrinkles. I topstitched on both sides of each seam, and I topstitched all the edges of the waist band. I went with a hook and eye closure on the waistband, and just put in a topstitched hem. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The skirt is delightfully swishy, a lot of fun to wear. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The only fly in the ointment? It's too big. The pattern, thankfully, gives finished garment measurements on the back of the envelope (I love that feature in the Big 4 patterns, and I'm happy that this independent pattern maker included it on hers). But the measurements are incorrect. Based on my body measurements, I wanted to make a skirt with a finished waist measurement of 30 inches. According to the pattern, that meant I should make a size 8. Which I did. But the finished waist measurement was 31 1/2 inches. Which is the size 10, not the 8.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This explains why so many people have mentioned that the waist on this pattern is really big - everyone has been making the wrong size. To my credit, I did a flat pattern measure of the waistband, but I assumed the mistake was mine - maybe I wasn't measuring correctly. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Nope, to make a skirt with a waist measurement of 30 inches, I should have made a 6, not an 8.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I'm a little disappointed because I really love this fabric, but I hope to make this again, just one size smaller and then it should be perfect!</span></div>
KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-84277078602079321562014-04-20T17:03:00.003-04:002014-04-20T17:17:26.113-04:00A Quick Update<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: large;">The reason you haven't heard from me following <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2014/04/my-inaugural-beacon-sewing-retreat.html" target="_blank">Gertie's awesome sewing retreat</a> is two-fold: 1) I've been sewing up a storm since I got home, and 2) I replaced my laptop computer (it was 7 years old) which required a stay at the Geek Squad, and a complete relearning of everything I have ever known about how to use a computer since I now have Windows 8. Of course, the key is to just spend time with the computer, trying it out and seeing what works, but who has the time? And when I do have the time, I'd rather be sewing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">So then, of course, I couldn't write the brilliant post I felt the weekend deserved, because</span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-size: large;">all this time had passed, coupled with my perfectionist's tendencies</span><span style="font-size: large;">. It's time for me to get over that and just tell you the whole experience was marvelous and if you ever get the chance to go, just go. Gertie and her husband, Jeff, are delightful, down-to-earth people who truly want to help and make sure you have a good time. And everyone who attended couldn't have been nicer. <a href="http://cashmerette.blogspot.com/2014/04/gertie-cupcakes-waterfalls-and-real-tea.html" target="_blank">Jenny</a>, <a href="http://www.rosiewednesday.blogspot.com/2014/04/gerties-inaugural-beacon-sewing-retreat.html" target="_blank">Lauren</a>, <a href="http://butterfly-747.blogspot.ca/2014/04/frosting-secret-to-fitting-success.html" target="_blank">Kristen</a>, <a href="http://dividingmoments.blogspot.com/2014/04/sewing-retreat-gertie-style.html" target="_blank">Joanna,</a> and myself were the bloggers in attendance. We had lawyers, a microbiologist, costumers - such a wide range of amazing, intelligent women. We had three Brits (counting Gertie's trusty assistant, Fleur), two Canadians, a Dutch-American, and a Cuban-American. All were looking for help on fitting and we had come to the right place. I watched Gertie do a full bust adjustment in about 45 seconds. I watched</span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Jenny do a full bust adjustment in about 30.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Of course, I took my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/03/muslin-take-2-butterick-5895.html" target="_blank">green peddle pushers</a> with me for fitting and it took Gertie about a minute and half to take 1/2 inch out of the front rise and add about 1/2 inch to the back rise. Then for the rest of the weekend, I made pants. I made another pair of green pants with the altered pattern:</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-us3r8EtXJyI/U1QrDGXDGiI/AAAAAAAACLg/jKZBQ3LwvBw/s1600/photo+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-us3r8EtXJyI/U1QrDGXDGiI/AAAAAAAACLg/jKZBQ3LwvBw/s1600/photo+1.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And then I got started a polka-dotted version from some cotton stretch sateen I found at Joann's before I left:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">(Look at that bootie fit!)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">To say I can't be more pleased is a massive understatement. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">One funny story: I really admired Jenny's <a href="http://cashmerette.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/if-it-aint-broke-make-it-in-japanese.html" target="_blank">Simplicity 2343</a> skirt she wore at the retreat and I was determined to make it when I got home but found the pattern was out of print. One of the attractive features was that it had pockets like my Gertie pants. But then I thought, wait a minute! I have a pants pattern that fits me like a dream through my waist and hips - why can't I draft a skirt pattern? Which, of course, I have never done before. But I did it, dear readers:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And I used the left over polka-dotted fabric! I anticipated having to sew the side seams multiple times to get just the right fit, but nope, it fit perfectly on the first try! One of the great things about the retreat was that it really did de-mystify the whole "altering patterns is hard and time consuming" mindset. Seeing it done in person, and so easily, made me realize that this isn't brain surgery - all I need to get good at it are more classes and retreats like this one. It won't be my last!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">P.S. 1) Gertie is stunning in person. Really. And Lauren is astonishingly pretty! We kept urging her to try out for the Great American sewing bee, but she lives in Austin, Texas, not the Tri-State area of NY/NJ/CT they are looking for. We think she should move.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">2) I hope to get the whole camera photos/new computer issue resolved soon so I don't have to keep relying on crappy cell phone pics.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">3) It took me HOURS to write this post. I'm sure this new computer will become second nature to me in due time. Like 7 years.</span></div>
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KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-84922190904444993512014-03-30T16:32:00.000-04:002014-03-30T16:32:13.936-04:00Muslin Take 2 - Butterick 5895 <span style="font-size: large;">Well, y'all, today went better than <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/03/goin-to-see-gertie-butterick-5895.html" target="_blank">yesterday's horrific pant ordeal</a>. This rainy afternoon I managed to make the size 14. This time I used the cotton sateen that will be my final pair of pants (I bought twice as much as I needed so I could make a muslin in my actual fashion fabric.) The fit was much better, in that I could get the pants around my body:</span><div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wqwrvtQsork/Uzh7RqeoRxI/AAAAAAAACJ8/v0vqTHCQgpo/s1600/IMG_5364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wqwrvtQsork/Uzh7RqeoRxI/AAAAAAAACJ8/v0vqTHCQgpo/s1600/IMG_5364.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Working with this stretch cotton sateen was a LOT easier to work with than the stiff twill stretch icky stuff I used yesterday:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">It was soft, and much easier to pin. Just like yesterday, I sewed my outside seams so the allowances were on the outside, for future fitting purposes.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">These photos don't really show the true greeness of this fabric - they are a little washed out and make the fabric look a little minty instead.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's a shot with flash:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I'm no expert on fitting pants, but I suspect I need a little extra room in the high hip, a little less fabric in the front rise, and a little extra in the back rise. But I don't know - it's hard for me to tell without a waistband attached. </span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-26vxs9q1zIo/Uzh7T8DvsfI/AAAAAAAACKM/orbU9JLxfI4/s1600/IMG_5371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-26vxs9q1zIo/Uzh7T8DvsfI/AAAAAAAACKM/orbU9JLxfI4/s1600/IMG_5371.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I timed myself this go around, and from the time I sat down and sewed my first stitch on this muslin until I finished the zipper was one hour and sixteen minutes. Now, I didn't finish seam allowances, or do the waistband, or hem, but still: these pants are a quick make. One thing I did do that I didn't do yesterday, I edgestitched and topstitched the front pockets to see if I like it. Verdict: I like the edgestitching but the topstitching, not so much.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XJtqb-Ft4S4/Uzh7VwlGrKI/AAAAAAAACKg/vEMaXd_wzAA/s1600/IMG_5372.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XJtqb-Ft4S4/Uzh7VwlGrKI/AAAAAAAACKg/vEMaXd_wzAA/s1600/IMG_5372.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's a photo that shows more of the true green!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I pray this gives <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/p/upcoming-classes-and-events.html" target="_blank">Gertie</a> something to work with while fitting this coming weekend. I'm hoping these pants become my sloper for any pants in the future!</span></div>
KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-3829137585638007652014-03-29T20:38:00.000-04:002014-03-29T20:38:42.542-04:00Goin' to See Gertie - Butterick 5895<span style="font-size: large;">I'm going to <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/p/upcoming-classes-and-events.html" target="_blank">Gertie's sewing retreat</a> next weekend which I'm pretty excited about (I leave Friday), and the consensus was that pants should be my project for the weekend. <a href="http://vickiwelsh.typepad.com/field_trips_in_fiber/" target="_blank">Vicki </a>pointed out that having the opportunity to have someone help me fit my first pair of pants - by the person who drafted the pattern, no less - was an opportunity not to be wasted. Butterick published Gertie's pattern for a pair of peddle pushers last year:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i6VPSWqfK60/UzcYRGNezLI/AAAAAAAACJI/MbfCcyT-ugU/s1600/IMG_5363.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i6VPSWqfK60/UzcYRGNezLI/AAAAAAAACJI/MbfCcyT-ugU/s1600/IMG_5363.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I wouldn't say it's my style, but it is an easy pair of pants - the zipper is in the back seam, and a good place to start. I bought the smaller sized pattern that went up to size 12 because size 12 in the Big Four is my usual pattern size. I plan to make my pants from a gorgeous <a href="http://gorgeousfabrics.com/shop/cotton/italian-stretch-cotton-sateen-emerald/" target="_blank">green stretch cotton sateen</a> I got from, where else?, <a href="http://gorgeousfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Gorgeous Fabrics</a>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Gertie recommended to the retreat group that we make a muslin prior to our arrival, so we can maximize our time fitting and sewing. This is my last weekend to make my muslin (nothing like waiting until the last minute to do my homework . . .). So this morning, I looked at the pattern.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Huh. Those size 12 finished measurements printed on the pattern look kinda small. But I'm going to use a stretch fabric, right? That's going to affect fit. But still. Those are small measurements.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So in abundance of caution, I went to Hancocks to get the larger size pattern that contained size 14. Of course, the Butterick patterns weren't on sale today, so the pattern cost me $ 11.00 as opposed to the $ 1.99 I spent on the first one a few weeks ago. I also bought some stretch twill pictured under the pattern as my muslin fabric. When I got home, I decided to give the size 12 a try - if it worked, then I could return the larger, $ 11 pattern.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Well, y'all, I can say that the size 12 is definitely too small. I'm glad I muslined it. It saved me some major embarrassment at the retreat. And it wasn't that bad to make. I didn't worry about topstitching or finishing or trimming seams. I didn't attach the waistband. It went pretty quickly.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">And then I tried it on. Well, I <i>tried </i>to try it on. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">To say it was snug was an understatement. It took a lot of strength to get the zipper up. I can't believe I'm going to show you my fat behind, but since this is in the interest of <i>science, </i>dear readers, I will sacrifice my dignity:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qsZveNo7wCw/UzcbDNfzDKI/AAAAAAAACJk/22NjY9ljGdo/s1600/IMG_5362.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qsZveNo7wCw/UzcbDNfzDKI/AAAAAAAACJk/22NjY9ljGdo/s1600/IMG_5362.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">You can see that I sewed the side seams wrong sides together so the seam allowances are on the outside. My thinking that I could more easily make alterations, if necessary. My thinking was correct only if I didn't need like, at least two more inches all the way around:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">OK, size 14 is definitely required. I felt like I needed to lay down after taking these photos with a cool, damp cloth on my forehead. And never eat again.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I realize this pattern is deliberately close-fit. I realize that the skirts and dresses I usually make have some fudge factor in them - a precise fit isn't usually required, limited only to how tight you like your skirts. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So I'm recovering. Slowly. I'm trying to learn that no muslin is failure because you learn something as result. And I've learned to trust the measurements printed on the pattern!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">By tomorrow, I'll be recovered enough to make the 14. Wish me luck.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">: )</span><br />
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KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-2996161198905231462014-03-15T16:35:00.002-04:002014-03-15T16:35:57.112-04:00New Look 6000 Dress<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">After finishing the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Tippi%20Hedren%20suit" target="_blank">Tippi Hedren</a> suit, I wanted to make another dress to wear with the jacket which I absolutely love. I wanted to use the rayon/silk blend check on the left below:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I used some of it for the back of my <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/03/folkwear-victoria-vest-sewing-room.html" target="_blank">Victorian vest</a>, and wanted to make a simple sheath dress. I decided to use New Look 6000, which I have <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/New%20Look%206000" target="_blank">made before</a>. </span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UOwYueuYtek/UR2XMJkvh5I/AAAAAAAABfk/GQKpKVPWwGg/s1600/IMG_4671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UOwYueuYtek/UR2XMJkvh5I/AAAAAAAABfk/GQKpKVPWwGg/s1600/IMG_4671.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This time, I made view E (the yellow polka dot version) without the sleeves. It was an easy make and I made no alterations, just a size 12, straight up. It was fun because the dress went together quickly which was nice, given all the trouble I had with my Victorian vest. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The rayon/silk blend was supple, a joy to work with. I used facings for the armholes which isn't my favorite finishing for armholes, but I felt this drapey fabric needed the added structure. But upon wearing, I found this stuff wrinkles horribly:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">But I loved the look; the checked fabric was a wonderful match for my wool jacket:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">But well, there is the wrinkling:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XgzBJQ4vsWA/UySyTMB9q0I/AAAAAAAACIg/nO9iFz4Y6d0/s1600/IMG_5353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XgzBJQ4vsWA/UySyTMB9q0I/AAAAAAAACIg/nO9iFz4Y6d0/s1600/IMG_5353.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And by the end of the day, I discovered that my back center seam was beginning to shred.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Apparently, my rump is just too much for this fabric; I underestimated it's delicate nature. I'm not certain I will be able to wear this dress much in the future, especially to work as that seam could go at any time!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So not an epic fail, but not a success either. I have not given up on this fabric; I still believe I can make a non-fitted skirt to wear with this jacket. But to recover from this project, I'm working on my first shirtdress of 2014!!! Yes, it's been a while since a shirtdress was made, and I'm in withdrawal. Onward and upward!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">On more exciting news, I discovered that I got into <a href="http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/p/upcoming-classes-and-events.html" target="_blank">Gertie's Sewing Retreat</a> for the first week of April! I'm in a complete dither as to what project I should take that needs Gertie's help. Possibly the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Vogue%208648" target="_blank">Vogue Couture</a> dress which had fitting problems (plus the dress is already made so essentially, it is muslin), or, and this is a wild thought, maybe I should try a pair of pants. Other than some boxers or pj bottoms, I have never made a pair of pants, and Gertie has a <a href="http://butterick.mccall.com/b5895-products-44972.php?page_id=371" target="_blank">pattern out </a>now with a pair. How cool would it be to learn how to make pants from the person who drafted the pattern???</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Still deciding . . . Any suggestions welcome!</span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-72428715022691413962014-03-03T14:32:00.001-05:002014-03-30T17:04:13.614-04:00Folkwear Victorian Vest & Sewing Room Reveal!<span style="font-size: large;">It's a snow day here in Richmond, VA, so an opportunity to update what I have been working on the past month or so! After completing the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/tippi-hedren-suit-done-butterick-2178.html" target="_blank">Tippi Hedren suit</a>, I was left with scraps from my 3 metres of fabric I had bought <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/tippi-hedren-suit-butterick-2178.html" target="_blank">in Rome</a>. In an attempt to keep the good time going working with this wool/cashmere blend, I decided to make something from the scraps - no amount of this lovely fabric should go unused. I scratched my head and came up with the idea of a vest - yes, that's it! I'll make a vest. I had large enough scraps for two front pieces, and then I could use a coordinating fabric for the back of the vest.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I've never made a vest before, but I thought it would be a good idea because my workplace has declared Fridays as jeans days, so 20% of my workwear is now jeans. Making a vest would allow me to wear this yummy fabric on Fridays and weekends. Yay! Not being a western type of person, and probably under the influence of too many Downton Abbey episodes, I was thinking Victorian and <a href="http://www.folkwear.com/" target="_blank">Folkwear Patterns</a> had one:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I thought the fitted vest on the far left to be the winner - it is shaped for the female figure and looked wonderful. I planned to use the wool/cashmere fabric for the two fronts and the rayon/silk fabric on the left that I ordered at <a href="http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/" target="_blank">FabricMart</a> for the back:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">It's a vest, right? How hard can this be??? Pretty hard, I discovered. It seemed that everything that could go wrong on this seemingly simple project, did. I mean, beginner sewers often make a vest as a first project and I had just finished the Tippi Hedren suit, drafting my own lining pattern in the process. I thought I had this.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I was so wrong. I cut the fronts in a single layer so that I could fit the pattern pieces on the scraps. In doing so, I found I had failed to flip my pattern piece, so in essence I had cut two right side pieces, but no left. This wasn't fatal since the right and wrong sides of this wool/cashmere fabric aren't very different, so I just flipped one piece over and declared it fine. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">It was a portent of things to come. I kept making rookie mistakes, like pressing darts the wrong way. I used habotai silk for the lining, which <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Vogue%208648" target="_blank">I <i>knew </i>would be evil</a>, and it was. My attempt to find buttons was a fruitless search, so I ended up trying to cover buttons in the wool/cashmere fabric in two sizes, but neither could handle the thickness of the fabric.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">And when it was done, I found the waist to be a little small, even though it seemed to fit when I basted everything together prior to the final sewing. I don't know what happened - maybe I was confused as to where the center front was located. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">But the biggest problem was my failure to recognize that the vest only came to one's waist. Victorian women wore Victorian vests with Victorian high-waisted skirts. Which is pretty obvious, right? But I failed to consider how this would look with jeans, which aren't waist high these days, unless you are wearing the dreaded "mom-jeans" from the 1990s. My jeans aren't particularly low-rise, but there is a good three inches from where this vest ends and my jeans begin - not a good look. I searched high and low and found exactly one garment I owned that was high-waisted enough to wear with this vest - a grey Cabi knit maxi skirt.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">My enthusiasm to finish this vest that can only be worn with one garment in my wardrobe waned considerably. Especially after <i>three weekends of work. </i>So I basically called it a day and gave up on buttons, closing the vest with my cameo pin I got at the Vatican on our Italy trip:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">This solution had the added advantage of leaving the waist free, thus, eliminating the too-tight waist problem. I used the rayon/silk for my undercollar:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-igJeH7Lpi98/UxTJdHG2MQI/AAAAAAAACGM/LO3YzIU0igU/s1600/IMG_5329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-igJeH7Lpi98/UxTJdHG2MQI/AAAAAAAACGM/LO3YzIU0igU/s1600/IMG_5329.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's that nasty habotai silk lining that was a bitch to work with:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BMynmvH8Pkg/UxTJc6sxoHI/AAAAAAAACGE/7NOjrKr602c/s1600/IMG_5331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BMynmvH8Pkg/UxTJc6sxoHI/AAAAAAAACGE/7NOjrKr602c/s1600/IMG_5331.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8XOV5zg1Fr0/UxTJhq0aR6I/AAAAAAAACGg/5Rg4l0zVeNs/s1600/IMG_5333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8XOV5zg1Fr0/UxTJhq0aR6I/AAAAAAAACGg/5Rg4l0zVeNs/s1600/IMG_5333.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's the back, which I did think worked well and looked pretty good. Ignore the wrinkle, I had been sitting:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9v2AH4EF614/UxTJitdbjLI/AAAAAAAACGo/Rdrqen_jB2Q/s1600/IMG_5335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9v2AH4EF614/UxTJitdbjLI/AAAAAAAACGo/Rdrqen_jB2Q/s1600/IMG_5335.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In sum: the only way this vest is going to get any substantial wear is if I start making Victorian high-waisted skirts, and given my recent steady diet of Downton Abbey, that is a distinct possibility. At least I now know what adjustments I need to make if I ever make another and that I'll have to make a Victorian skirt go with it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I do want to make it plain that any problems I had with this pattern is not the fault of Folkwear Patterns - it was all due to user error and the fact that my sewing brain took an enormous holiday during the making thereof.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The other project that has been going on is the transformation of my sewing room! Until about a month ago, it looked like this:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hXPWvtR0p7A/UF9uPNVYzxI/AAAAAAAABXc/3VAwOKwp_F4/s1600/IMG_4377.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hXPWvtR0p7A/UF9uPNVYzxI/AAAAAAAABXc/3VAwOKwp_F4/s1600/IMG_4377.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And now it looks like this:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-skhzDc5Ycvs/UxTJulyDoxI/AAAAAAAACHA/Mk3YrCEihY8/s1600/IMG_5337.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-skhzDc5Ycvs/UxTJulyDoxI/AAAAAAAACHA/Mk3YrCEihY8/s1600/IMG_5337.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://vickiwelsh.typepad.com/field_trips_in_fiber/" target="_blank">Vicki </a>gets all the credit for this; she came over and <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/its-sewing-room-miracle-and-tippi.html" target="_blank">got me organized</a>! See the big cabinet in the corner? That's where my fabric is these days. And here is The Carpenter's old kitchen table, raise to 35 inches so I have a proper cutting out table in my actual sewing room:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sVpmOVWsDlE/UxTJudVKtUI/AAAAAAAACG8/u0qiHOBA6tg/s1600/IMG_5338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sVpmOVWsDlE/UxTJudVKtUI/AAAAAAAACG8/u0qiHOBA6tg/s1600/IMG_5338.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">He sanded down the top for me; I haven't decided whether to leave it unfinished, or prime and paint it. I'll think on it for a few years. Here's a book case in the corner holding pressing things and vintage patterns:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cxyAK7mEmik/UxTJuaeVzwI/AAAAAAAACG4/JG7Xm0dkZLY/s1600/IMG_5339.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cxyAK7mEmik/UxTJuaeVzwI/AAAAAAAACG4/JG7Xm0dkZLY/s1600/IMG_5339.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here are two cubby-hole thingys we got at Home Depot; Vicki came up with the idea of adding a shelf on top of both, providing more horizontal surface area and stablizing the two. The Carpenter built and painted the top shelf:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xSiDz23Eip8/UxTJxV-oYNI/AAAAAAAACHQ/S0uLqAMK4Yo/s1600/IMG_5340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xSiDz23Eip8/UxTJxV-oYNI/AAAAAAAACHQ/S0uLqAMK4Yo/s1600/IMG_5340.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Also those blue, yellow, grey, and green baskets are now holding patterns, sewing magazines, buttons, and various notions. My zippers are on the top shelf, in old flower vases. And, for</span><span style="font-size: large;"> the first time ever, I have a full length mirror in the house. (How did I ever sew without it???):</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eVnN0RZ2Ygc/UxTJxpMUjcI/AAAAAAAACHU/mFEpONatLP8/s1600/IMG_5341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eVnN0RZ2Ygc/UxTJxpMUjcI/AAAAAAAACHU/mFEpONatLP8/s1600/IMG_5341.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Vicki also came up with idea for peg board over the cutting table. I still haven't quite organized my tools on it:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mSu8eaNBRHM/UxTJx-EcmVI/AAAAAAAACHY/tkA92wOFgOk/s1600/IMG_5342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mSu8eaNBRHM/UxTJx-EcmVI/AAAAAAAACHY/tkA92wOFgOk/s1600/IMG_5342.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">My pressing area is pretty much the same, but the bookcase provides so much more space to store my pressing items:</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VuqM_Q5_g5g/UxTJy4SopDI/AAAAAAAACHo/LLMMr1-GR30/s1600/IMG_5343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VuqM_Q5_g5g/UxTJy4SopDI/AAAAAAAACHo/LLMMr1-GR30/s1600/IMG_5343.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I still need to hang my sewing themed artwork, but my picture hanging mojo is low, so I went ahead and took these photos before I completely junk up my beautiful sewing space. : ) Thank you, Vicki! And a big shout-out to Tammy, who came over and helped us put all this new furniture together!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Happy sewing, y'all!</span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-70785381019694994362014-01-26T18:27:00.000-05:002014-01-26T18:27:05.573-05:00Tippi Hedren Suit Done! - Butterick 2178<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;">I finished the Tippi Hedren inspired suit Saturday night, just in time for our Italy trip reunion on Sunday - we got together and shared photos and memories. I usually don't like to sew with a deadline, but I really wanted to finish my suit so our fellow travelers could see that I actually did something with the fabric that I forced them to admire as we left Rome. Here it is:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here I am doing my best Tippi Hedren impersonation:</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nlsb8xBau9U/UuViOm2ExDI/AAAAAAAACFo/lmq5pCccB2E/s1600/Tippi_Hedren.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nlsb8xBau9U/UuViOm2ExDI/AAAAAAAACFo/lmq5pCccB2E/s1600/Tippi_Hedren.jpg" height="194" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">OK, I'm not quite the tall, willowly blond Tippi Hedren was. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pf-rCDXNnlw/UuViWti815I/AAAAAAAACFw/yP9IS4KHgzA/s1600/tippi_hedren_the_birds_13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pf-rCDXNnlw/UuViWti815I/AAAAAAAACFw/yP9IS4KHgzA/s1600/tippi_hedren_the_birds_13.jpg" height="171" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">But I am enormously pleased with this suit. As you can see, my winged collar isn't exactly like Ms. Hedren's, but I think I captured the essence. As you recall, I began with this pattern:</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WllD-9mErSQ/UpJpGj1aECI/AAAAAAAAB8g/V4tbsGGb-YQ/s1600/IMG_5243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WllD-9mErSQ/UpJpGj1aECI/AAAAAAAAB8g/V4tbsGGb-YQ/s1600/IMG_5243.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The Butterick pattern was published in 1963, and had fake pocket flaps, rather than patch pockets, and the jacket had no cuffs. The film was released in 1963, which means it was probably filmed in 1962. I recently trolled the internet for 1962 patterns and saw that the suits in 1962 did have the patch pockets and collars more like Ms. Hedren's. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uvhgYdI1_0g/UuVhasCZDrI/AAAAAAAACFQ/rPWHOUT09SI/s1600/IMG_5321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uvhgYdI1_0g/UuVhasCZDrI/AAAAAAAACFQ/rPWHOUT09SI/s1600/IMG_5321.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As you recall, I used <a href="http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5972-products-10559.php?page_id=108/" target="_blank">McCalls 5972</a> (the blue dress version) for my dress under the jacket. It is just a basic, sleeveless sheath dress. I lined the bodice with some leftover quilting weight cotton I had in my scraps stash. I did not line the skirt portion. It was interesting that Edith Head's original conception of the costume was a skirt and blouse under the jacket, just like my pattern. Somewhere along the way, she must have decided to do a dress instead.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M386TSYU4ps/UuVhXbXil2I/AAAAAAAACEc/tVo6IQSjwnQ/s1600/IMG_5316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M386TSYU4ps/UuVhXbXil2I/AAAAAAAACEc/tVo6IQSjwnQ/s1600/IMG_5316.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">When I lift my arms, the peach colored lining peeks out. That's OK with me:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UjbsRQPx52Q/UuVhY0OyyhI/AAAAAAAACE0/WYGUfh4Pm8I/s1600/IMG_5317.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UjbsRQPx52Q/UuVhY0OyyhI/AAAAAAAACE0/WYGUfh4Pm8I/s1600/IMG_5317.JPG" height="320" width="284" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's the back:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Whoops, I probably needed a little more pressing back there. The Carpenter didn't get a photo of the bottom of my dress - it's straight, with a back vent. Because the jacket is boxy, you need a straight skirt. A full skirt with a boxy jacket is not the most chic look.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">This suit was a joy to sew, and my favorite thing I have ever made. I have high hopes that it will equally be a joy to wear - I certainly enjoyed wearing it this afternoon. While I usually don't like having self-imposed deadlines, I'm glad I did for this suit because it really is a cooler weather suit. There's nothing more deflating than working on a garment and then putting it away for six months before you can properly wear it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">All my posts on this project are <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Butterick%202178" target="_blank">here</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I anticipate wearing this jacket a lot, with jeans, if nothing else. I want to make another dress or a skirt to coordinate with the jacket. I'm thinking of this checked fabric:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">(I believe it is some sort of rayon/silk blend.) I have until February 12th to wear my new suit to the Hollywood Exhibit at the VMFA and compare it to the original inspiration!</span></div>
KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-52885333319654941362014-01-20T22:12:00.003-05:002014-01-20T22:16:24.980-05:00It's A Sewing Room Miracle! And the Tippi Hedren Suit Progress - Butterick 2178<span style="font-size: large;">On Saturday, <a href="http://vickiwelsh.typepad.com/field_trips_in_fiber/2014/01/design.html" target="_blank">Vicki</a> came over and helped me figure out how to organize my sewing room. She saw it over Christmas - in the same state as the day I moved in a year and a half ago - and she became deeply depressed. The room was full of boxes and bags of <strike>crap</strike>, I mean, my stuff, and she felt a great disturbance in The Force - the Sewing Force, that is. Something Had To Be Done.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">My problem was that I was paralyzed by choice. In the past, I sewed where ever I had a flat surface - give me no room and no choice and I can make it happen, but give me a blank canvas and I'm stuck. A dedicated sewing room seriously messed with my head.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So Vicki loaded up all her organizing skills and unleashed them at my house. And at my husband. The Carpenter now has homework, and he knows it. He's going to hang a peg board for me, elevate an old table, and create a shelf on top of two bookcases we bought on Saturday. As soon as he does all that, I'll take photos and post them so you can behold the awesomeness that is my new sewing room.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">On Sunday, I entered the sewing room and sewed for 12 hours. I finally stopped about 11:00 pm but only because The Carpenter said, "Time for bed." Basically, I finished the jacket of the Tippi Hedren suit! On Sunday morning it was exactly where <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2014/01/tippi-hedren-suit-outer-jacket-complete.html" target="_blank">you saw it last</a> with only the outer jacket constructed, and by 11:00 pm that night it was complete with only the lining hem to hand sew. I credit Vicki and the new sewing room configuration.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So here it is:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">You can see that I went with a peach colored silk charmeuse for the lining. I dithered long and hard on this lining. I considered using the lining I bought for the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Butterick%205824%3B%20coat%20sew%20along" target="_blank">Gertie coat</a> and the <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/yellow%20skirt" target="_blank">yellow skirt</a> (God knows I have enough of it), but I was concerned it might be a little too warm. I considered washed silk shantung, but I felt it would be too thin. The charmeuse is lovely, and I had it in my stash, so I went with it. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I re-did the pockets and I am much happier with them now:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">This wool is very forgiving, and left no stitching marks behind, so it was easy to take them off, and re-orient the seam allowance inside the pocket. It is much flatter now.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I am very proud of the cuffs, especially since I had to figure them out myself - my pattern had no cuffs:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's how I did it: I measured the width of my sleeve pattern at the bottom edge (14 1/4 inches). That measurement became the width of my cuff pattern piece. I knew I wanted my cuffs to be an inch and half wide, so I doubled that number (to three inches) and then I added my seam allowances (2 half inch seam allowances equals 1 inch), for a total of 4 inches. So my cuff pattern was 14 1/4 inches by 4 inches. I cut my cuffs from the pattern on the bias.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> I sewed the short 4 inch sides right side together and then turned the cuff right side out. I folded the cuff in half length-wise, and sewed the two raw edges of the cuff to the inside of the sleeve. Then I pressed the cuff to the outside of the sleeve. By doing it this way, the seam joining the cuff to the sleeve is outside the jacket, rather than inside, but it will be covered by the cuff:</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-huw1jmpmngE/Ut3YcTgyJjI/AAAAAAAACCs/R3ilgzwTOn8/s1600/IMG_5296.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-huw1jmpmngE/Ut3YcTgyJjI/AAAAAAAACCs/R3ilgzwTOn8/s1600/IMG_5296.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The inside of the sleeve cuff looks clean and neat:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">To keep the cuff turned up, I hand tacked it at the back seam of the sleeve and cuff. (Doing it this way also automatically hems your sleeve lining as well!)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">One thing I love about the sleeves on this jacket is the dart at the elbow, something you don't see in a lot of modern patterns:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So the lining. I drafted my own lining pattern. I don't know if I did it "right". I did what made sense to me. Here we go:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">For the sleeves, I just used the sleeve pattern pieces with no change. For the back lining, I used the back pattern piece, but instead of cutting the pattern piece on the fold, I positioned the pattern piece a half inch from the fold of the fabric: </span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o1nLxwjr8GE/Ut3YgDPm9vI/AAAAAAAACDY/iMXJCZaCNHw/s1600/IMG_5302.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o1nLxwjr8GE/Ut3YgDPm9vI/AAAAAAAACDY/iMXJCZaCNHw/s1600/IMG_5302.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">The extra half inch became my one inch pleat that gave me extra ease in my lining:</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hnewCZVqjfA/Ut3YjzyPe5I/AAAAAAAACEE/at4qiG5cD-I/s1600/IMG_5307.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hnewCZVqjfA/Ut3YjzyPe5I/AAAAAAAACEE/at4qiG5cD-I/s1600/IMG_5307.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">The original pattern fold line became my stitching line. For the first two inches (from the top neckline), I used my regular sewing stitch. After the first two inches, I went to a basting stitch until I reach 2 inches from the bottom edge, whereupon I went back to my regular stitch length. After inserting the lining, I took out the basting stitches, thus releasing my pleat.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The front lining pattern piece was the most challenging. I took the collar/jacket facing pattern piece,</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-661UU8Iv_p8/Ut3Yg864hFI/AAAAAAAACD0/SNff4uuthLA/s1600/IMG_5304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-661UU8Iv_p8/Ut3Yg864hFI/AAAAAAAACD0/SNff4uuthLA/s1600/IMG_5304.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">and laid it over the front jacket pattern piece. Then I traced whatever the collar/jacket facing pattern piece did not cover, but added an half inch where the facing and lining piece will meet when I stitch them together with a quarter inch seam allowance. This is what I ended up with:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EQHvqE2YuNE/Ut3YgvdT0jI/AAAAAAAACDc/XBOoCn2KFbg/s1600/IMG_5303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EQHvqE2YuNE/Ut3YgvdT0jI/AAAAAAAACDc/XBOoCn2KFbg/s1600/IMG_5303.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I know, not very exciting. But it worked. I didn't sew the darts in my lining pieces (with the exception of the sleeve dart), but I brought the legs together as tucks. By not sewing the complete darts, I gave my lining extra ease. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">My one "duh" moment came when I prepared to hem the jacket, fully intending to put in a machine hem, when I realized that I would be hemming right through my pockets. Doh! A hand stitched hem was a must. I have to admit that the interlining, again, helped tremendously, and allowed the hem to be truly invisible since I only stitched to the interlining, rather than all the way to the outer wool layer. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I still have to hand sew the lining hem to the jacket hem. Getting the lining lined up correctly is a challenge. Too loose and it sags; too tight and it makes your garment hang funny. And what looks right on the hanger doesn't necessarily look right on you. So it is a lot of pinning and trying on. I think I have it about right now:</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1K4psxMF6o/Ut3YkVyX_BI/AAAAAAAACEI/Qm208AZ8Rww/s1600/IMG_5308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1K4psxMF6o/Ut3YkVyX_BI/AAAAAAAACEI/Qm208AZ8Rww/s1600/IMG_5308.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I am enormously pleased with how this jacket has turned out. With the incredibly soft wool/cashmere outer jacket and silk lining, this is an incredibly luxurious garment. I have never worked with such gorgeous fabric.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Today I started on the dress that will go under the jacket. As I have mentioned, I'm using <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/search/label/McCalls%205972" target="_blank">McCalls 5972</a>, and I cut it out today. It won't be underlined, but I lined the bodice with cotton. Again, this wool is so fantastic, I sort of don't want the sewing to end. I might be able to make a vest from the scraps I have left, and don't think I won't try. : )</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I did finish the bodice today; here it is hanging from the back of my chair:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">You can see one of the purchases Vicki and I made in the background!</span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-308754857708038409.post-91380883223853541052014-01-12T19:31:00.001-05:002014-01-12T19:31:19.414-05:00Tippi Hedren Suit - Outer Jacket Complete! Butterick 2178<span style="font-size: large;">I finished the outer jacket today and here it is:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The pockets are going to be a lot shallower than depicted in the photo because I haven't hemmed the jacket yet (the hem is a deep 1 3/4 inches). To make the pockets, I started by looking at the front jacket pattern piece which shows the placement of the pocket flaps:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I measured, and the distances between the two dots above was 5 inches, so I added a half inch for two quarter inch seam allowances. I then measured to the bottom edge of the pattern piece and that was 5 3/8 inches. Then I added another two inches because I wanted a fold-over so that the lining of the pocket wouldn't show from the top of the pocket. So my "pattern piece" for the pocket was 5 1/2 inches by 7 3/8 inches. I didn't worry about being exact, since I could just trim the bottom of the pocket to be even with the bottom of the jacket.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I cut two pieces from the wool and two pieces from some silk scraps from some silk my in-laws brought me from <a href="http://cottoncreeksewing.blogspot.com/2010/09/sinapore-swag.html" target="_blank">Singapore</a>. I sewed them together at the top using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Then I stitched them together at the sides, right sides together, with the wool folded about an 1 1/4 inch down. Then I turned the pockets right side out. Here is a photo of the back/inside of the pockets:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">And here's a close up of the front pocket before it was sewn on:</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">To attach the pocket, I used the placement dots on the pattern piece to orient me where I wanted the pockets. I ended up putting them a half inch closer to the front and a half inch higher than the original pocket flap marks.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Then there was nothing left to do but topstitch down the side of each pocket. I sweated this step though, because topstitching is forever. (Not really, but it feels like it!) I've been using the dark pine green thread I used on my Gertie coat for this project, but I felt that it was too dark for this heathered green wool. I ended up using dark grey thread instead, which I believe blended better with the wool.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Also, I didn't topstitch the pockets all the way to the bottom edge of the jacket because I don't want the pocket edge to interfere with my hemming. So I left the bottom inch unstitched so I can trim the pockets before I hem. The bottom of the pockets will be covered by the lining.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Of course, as I type, I realize that I should have pressed the wool/silk top seam towards the silk instead of towards the wool; it would lay flatter. Thus, I'm not completely happy with the pockets, but I'm not certain I'm so unhappy that I would re-do them. I'll ruminate on it for awhile.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Today I also made a pattern piece for the cuffs, and created a pattern piece for the jacket front lining. Still don't know if it will work, but I'll make it work. I laid out all the still uncut pattern pieces, along with the dress pattern pieces just to make sure I'll have enough fabric. I'll have enough with about 1/4 yard to spare!</span>KimPhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11713499438047823595noreply@blogger.com1